👋 Happy National Dance Like a Chicken Day! Do chickens surf? Unlike dogs, and cats, and pigs, we haven’t come across any surfing birds. Well, there’s a bird called a surfbird, but it doesn’t surf either. Its song is a whistled tee tee tee.

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• How do you know you’re progressing? 🤯

• What the heck, asym! 🫤

• Lola faces a wave 🌊

• San Francisco to LA for beginners 🚗

• Surf news roundup 📰

• The cutest surf thing we’ve found 🥹

• Three surf trips we’re wishing for 😭

^SURFODRAMA

😱 How do you even know you’re progressing?

Surfing progress, but you're Benjamin Buttoning it.

Lifting weights is easy. Okay, not fair. Lifting weights is easier than surfing, because tracking progress in lifting is a breeze.

You know what your form should look like. You know how much you can lift in pounds or kgs, and you know how many times you can lift it.

Tracking progress in surfing sucks, because none of the above have a true equivalent in surfing. Not even one.

So when people ask: how do you even know that you're progressing in surfing, the answer is: how long is a piece of string, and how much time do you have until your next appointment.

Beginners especially may be plagued by the thoughts of despair: Am I getting better? Or am I simply surviving, week after week? Or month after month, if you're a less frequent flyer.

Bad news. There's no objective answer. There's no exam you take, and if you're thinking: "but coaches!", we will get to it.

🪤 The counting trap
Most beginners try to measure surfing by applying the lifting metrics: number of reps. This includes counting the number of waves you caught, how long you surfed for, how far you paddled out to the lineup. And there are surf apps (Dawn Patrol, Garmin custom apps, Surfline session tracking) that take this data and present it in a pretty dashboard for you to ogle.

And this works for some people, even for a while. Then it stops working.

As one commenter put it: "After a certain point, raw wave count becomes a poor measure of progression. Once wave catching is truly removed as a barrier, you learn to care more about wave selection and quality more than quantity."

I used to count waves when I couldn't catch waves yet. Once you can catch them, the metric has to change.

The same logic applies to: how many times you popped-up, how many times you popped up without using a knee or fast enough to turn, how many times you've managed to turn on a wave and go down the line, how many surfers you restrained yourself from having words with in the parking lot because they snaked you.

Counting works to a point.

🎯 What experienced surfers actually track
The real progress signal, according to most experienced surfers, is internal. It's the moment when something that used to require thought becomes automatic.

It's easier if we share how some surfers describe it.

"Last few weeks I really focused on looking where I wanted to go during pop-up. Noticed yesterday I was just doing it, not thinking about it. Progress."

So this means we need to move from counting to… what? The best way to describe it is probably: when the thing (pop-up, turn, duck dive etc.) moves from "thinking about it" to "doing it without thinking." In short: when it becomes automatic.

Some surfers believe that this is the only form of progress that surfing actually offers.

We will talk about "what level of surfer you think you are" some time soon, but automation doesn't mean that the skill order doesn't matter.

This one is easier although not perfect science.

Get to the back, pop-up becomes a second nature (but it still doesn't mean that it has to be a super fast pop-up), then wave selection, position on the wave, trim, bottom turn and so on. Each skill, once it becomes automatic, should, in theory, unlock the next.

🤷 The anti-tracking camp
Now that we've figured out what we could track, let's talk about how bad tracking actually is. Because there's a small, but a very loud cohort of surfers that believe that we should stop tracking entirely.

These surfers say things like:

"The only thing I track is the fun I'm having."

"Every surfer should really get the idea of some timeline of progression out of their head. Just go have fun, prioritize that as much or more and you're good."

And we get their argument. Surfing isn't like any other sport. The ocean changes every session, and you will never have controlled conditions. I don't want to hear a word about wave pools. That's a different sport.

Should beginners just let go and stop torturing themselves with progress anxiety, because while anxiety can be measured, progress in surfing cannot?

Not so fast. That would be a total cop out, wouldn't it? Human beings, after all, derive pleasure and happiness from winning, or mastering new skills.

👁️ What you can't see from the inside
The most agreed-upon advice across everything we've researched (and experienced) is: if you can't tell, someone needs to tell you.

Many argue (and we agree) that surfing is easier and progress is faster when a coach is watching and giving feedback. Unless you don't enjoy being coached, in which case, all bets are off.

Most beginners' biggest problems (positioning, timing, looking down at their feet during pop-up) are invisible from the inside. You may think you're doing it right, but that's just an opinion.

That's why hiring an instructor occasionally, not constantly, may not be the worst idea.

Just enough to get an outside eye telling you what you can't see yourself.

"If you get a lesson once in a while from a good instructor, they can diagnose what you need to work on and give you some tips. Then you practice on your own."

Alternatives if a coach isn't available: video yourself, surf with more experienced people, watch better surfers in the lineup and copy what they do.

📌 The single best practical move
If you only take one thing from this:

Before each session, pick one thing to focus on. Just one. I'm pretty sure we talked about this before once or twice. But it's surfing, so we forget.

So, tape a sticky note to the nose of your board if you have to: "I will not let anyone steal my wave today."

At the end of the session, ask: did the thing happen automatically, or did I have to think about it? The former means progress!

💡 The honest answer
There is no objective metric that tells you whether you're progressing fast or slow. Whether you're going forward or backwards. It's too much of an unpredictable sport. All we hope for is for our surfing skills to progress from conscious to unconscious like breathing.

"My progression feels like one step forward, two steps back, then three steps forward! It's infuriating sometimes. Right now I'm out of the water. And I feel like the old fears are creeping back in. The patience you need for this sport is insane—and I am not a patient person! Why do I keep going? I do not know." says one of Girls Who Can't Surf Good.

Yeah, I don't know either. But we just keep going.

👉 We don’t need surf apps for tracking, but we still have a long list

^{WORD OF THE WEEK}

🤨 What the heck is an asym?

Asyms. Asymmetricals. Asymmetrical surfboards.

Once upon a time, and roughly every other day since, they've been hailed as the future of surfing. The ultimate response to every surfer's dream to own a surfboard so customized to their skill level and wave conditions that no matter how crap they are at surfing, they will surf like a pro.

Sorry, not happening.

👀 What does it look like?
If you've never seen an asymmetrical surfboard before, they look… just wrong. So wrong.

One side of the board may have a different tail shape than the other. Or one rail may be longer, and one side may be wider. Then the fins may not match.

Sometimes they look like someone shaped a regular surfboard and then got high and accidentally melted half of it. We know this is subjective, but they aren't pretty. Because symmetry is the prettiest one of them all.

🦶 Regular vs goofy
Still, some surfers, more experienced surfers, swear by them. Their argument? We humans are not symmetrical (especially frontside vs backside), therefore our boards shouldn't have to be either.

You know how you prefer going right or left on a wave, depending on what your stance is: regular or goofy.

Yeah, most surfers have a "good side".

Frontside usually feels more open, powerful, natural. You can see the wave, your eyes can follow it, so your body rotates more freely.

Backside, meanwhile, often feels compressed, kind of awkward and stiff. Plain weird, really, especially for beginners.

🔑 Backside surfing is key
That's where asymmetrical surfboards enter the conversation. Let me tell you a little secret: what if you could make your backside feel like your frontside?

This matters because backside surfing is where a huge number of intermediate surfers fizzle out. Their frontside surfing is pro-level, but when it comes to backside, bodies feel twisted, surfing feels somehow delayed.

And asymmetrical boards claim to directly address some of those problems. Sort of.

Some shapers are being more honest and admit that few surfers need hyper-specialized boards. That for the asym boards to be successful, you need consistent conditions, certain wave types, and to be performing specific types of turns. Dare we say, you need to be a specific type of surfer?

🤷‍♀️ Do I need one?
Probably not. But wouldn't it be fun to try one anyway?

^{PIC OF THE WEEK}

🌊 Lola faces the wave

Pic by Rick Jackoway

I mean, what a shot!

This is Lola Fleming, also known as Limitless Lola, photographed by Rick Jackoway the day before the SLO County Open in Pismo Beach in Central California.

In case you haven’t heard of Lola before (we hadn’t), she surfs, skis and skates, and is on the USA Surfing Junior National Team.

Rick’s photo “Lola Faces the Wave” was named as a semi-finalist in the first NYU Sports Photo Contest.

^{LATEST FROM GIRLS WHO CAN’T SURF GOOD}

💬 3 things we’re figuring out this week

🌴 Looking for a Bali surf camp for Christmas/NYE, beginner-ish, ideally not just 20-somethings. Community top picks: Xanadu Surf & Yoga in Lombok (30+ crowd, Christmas and NY dinners, 25 min from Bali), Hanging Surf Club in Bali (book Leo for 3-5 day lesson packs at Serangan and Baby Reef Sanur), Kima Surf Camp, Rapture Camps Padang Padang.

🌉 Five days in San Francisco, advanced beginner or intermediate, want mellow waves and a lesson. Community top picks: Pacifica/Linda Mar (closest mellow option, 30-40 min from SF), Traveler Surf Shop in Pacifica (women-owned, rentals + sauna + storage), Sonlight Surfshop for board rentals, Alvaro Tisoc for coaching, Santa Cruz an hour south (Jacks, Cowells, Steamers), Bolinas via Pacific Coast Surf Lessons (no board rental locally).

🛣️ SF-to-LA road trip, advanced beginner, looking for mellow spots along the coast. Community top picks, from south to north: Malibu, Mondo's (north of Ventura), Cambria, Morro Bay (cool vibe, not always mellow), Capitola, 38th/41st Street and Cowells in Santa Cruz, Linda Mar in Pacifica. Skip Ocean Beach in SF. Locals also flagged: check with surf shops about shark breeding seasons and currents before paddling.

👉 Join us for more recs, chatter, and support

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ River surfing injuries. Burnout in British surfing. Munich’s wave returns. Surf films go to Cannes.

“In Waves” produced by Silex Films

🌊 Surfer nearly loses leg after river surfing wipeout
What initially seemed like a minor fall at Boise Whitewater Park turned into a rare medical emergency requiring emergency surgery and a long recovery.

😮‍💨 Eight-time English surfing champion opens up about burnout
Lucy Campbell says years of nonstop competition, travel and pressure eventually left her bedridden and unable to surf for weeks.

🏞️ Munich’s famous river wave is back
The iconic Eisbach wave has officially reopened after disappearing during maintenance and following months of controversy and safety concerns.

🎬 Surf-themed animated film to open Cannes Critics’ Week
“In Waves”, based on AJ Dungo’s beloved graphic novel about surfing, love and grief, is heading to Cannes.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{THIS WEEK’S WEE SURF SHOPPE FIND}

🫎 The cutest surf thing we’ve found in a while 🥹

This week's Wee Surf Shoppe gem is...Jonas Claesson. Because honestly, how do you choose just one thing from his world? 😭

Jonas is an artist inspired by the ocean, surfing, and the natural world. He grew up in Sweden, keeping an eye out for moose while exploring forests and remote islands. These days, he lives in Australia with his family, where the wildlife spotting has mostly been replaced by glassy ankle-slapper (not an animal) spotting.

His work somehow manages to be funny and cute + peaceful and whimsical. We want to buy everything!

And yes, we absolutely added The Surfing Animals Alphabet to the Wee Surf Shoppe. 🥰

👉 Check it out

^{JUST IN ALL THINGS SURF DIRECTORY}

😭 Three surf trips we wish were going on

What’s down there, you guys?!

Summer is almost around the corner in the Northern Hemisphere. Who wants to go on a surfing vacay?

🥹 Cold Hawai’i—sorry, Denmark—in June: they had us at “warm soup” and “wild water swimming.”

🌺 Mentawais in August: who can say no to coral planting and batik workshops?

😜 Baja in November: coaching by a pro surfer? Meals by a pro chef? What next—a pro hot tub?!

👉 More surf retreats, events and meetups in the directory

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy… sorry, we don’t have time for this. So. Much. To. Cover. This. Week. And only one mini-surfodrama.

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• Don’t you go burning them eyes! 👀

• Puerto Escondido, but for beginners? 💀

• Alpacas on the beach 🦙

• Latest from Girls Who Can’t Surf Good 💬

• Surf news roundup 📰

• This week’s surf shoppe gem 💎

• Ready to party at your first surf contest? 🪩

^{MINI SURFODRAMA}

👀 Don’t you go burning them eyes! 👀

Making wearing shades look good since 1983

We’ve talked at length about “surfer’s eye”, this totally un-cute, occasionally freaky growth that can develop on your eyeball from too much sun, wind, and saltwater exposure.

And I’m sure everyone—myself included—was like: nah, not happening to me, not surfing enough. Nothing is going to grow on my eye, no siree.

But burned eyes? This can happen to anyone.

It came up in the group this week—someone’s kid surfed in Costa Rica and ended up with properly burned eyes. Think snow blindness, but make it surf.

So, what can you actually do about it (besides learning the hard way)?

🧢 Wear a surf hat
The least sexy, most effective option. Multiple people said it’s a game changer. Blocks a surprising amount of UV, and not just from above, but reflected off the water too.

🕶️ Surf sunglasses / goggles
Not cute, but extremely functional. Bonus: you’ll see waves coming earlier than everyone else, which honestly might be worth the trade-off. Brands like Sea Specs and Surf Shades came up, plus the good old “cheap pair + strap so you don’t cry when they disappear.”

🌅 Surf early or late
Dawn patrol and sunset sessions aren’t just for vibes, they massively reduce UV exposure. Midday (10–3) is when your eyes get absolutely blasted.

💧 Eye drops after surfing
Preservative-free lubricating drops came up a lot. Helps with dryness, irritation, and that gritty “my eyeballs hate me” feeling after a session.

👀 Contacts (with UV protection)
Apparently a thing. Not a silver bullet, but can add a bit of protection—especially for contact lens wearers already dealing with saltwater chaos.

Stay safe out there!

👉 More on surfer’s eye if you have a stomach for it

^{SURF THRU HISTORY | WAVE OF THE WEEK}

💀 Puerto Escondido, but for beginners?

Yeah, no, still not beginner enough. Pic by StellarD.

Savage. Gnarliest sand-bottom wave. Mexican Pipeline. That's Puerto Escondido, according to the Encyclopedia of Surfing.

And yet, we keep hearing: "I took my first surf class in Puerto Escondido" and "I spent the best 6 months living in Puerto improving my surfing".

So which one is it?!

But hold on, let's start at the very beginning, because it's important.

🤩 The dream of Puerto Escondido
"Some people love it. Some people get pounded, turn around, head for home and never come back," according to local hero surfer Coco Nogales.

And no freaking wonder.

The surf is big. It rarely drops below 4ft, May to October. You can expect the waves to be 6-8ft, sometimes 15ft. There are riptides, and currents, and exploding tubes, and closeouts, and it's hot hot hot, in and out of the water.

Okay, the wind is offshore until midday, but did we mention the pros and experienced crowds even on the smallest days?

American surfers came upon Puerto Escondido in 1959, but it wasn't "discovered" (meaning the surf press didn't publish any pics) until 1974. By the time the Puerto Escondido International Airport opened in 1986, it was all over, man.

The secret was out, the crowds were in. Then came the surf contests, and the movies: Ticket to Ride (1986) and Siestas and Olas (1997). In 2011, Puerto Escondido made it on Surfer Magazine's list of 100 best waves, at #40.

🙋 Can a beginner surf there?
Universally, neither Puerto Escondido nor any breaks in its vicinity are considered beginner breaks. Intermediate at minimum.

Not that it ever stopped anyone. Because, as we've learned from this week's surfodrama, not all beginners are created equal.

First, when people say "Puerto Escondido," they often mean two completely different things.

Either: Playa Zicatela, the famous heavy beach break with massive barrels, or the broader Puerto area, which includes smaller, more approachable beaches nearby.

To make things more confusing, we have both Playa Zicatela (Mexican Pipeline) and La Punta (Zicatela), which sits at the southern end of Zicatela.

The latter can be deceiving. Softer than main Zicatela and heavy on surf schools, so surely that's the place to be? Ha. The mix of more advanced surfers and heavy surf school crowds can make for a more stressful surf than necessary.

Better still, our group recommends Playa Carrizalillo. A protected cove, smaller waves, and plenty of surf schools. But it's a punchy little shorebreak, and there are these stairs… Everyone's mentioning the stairs.

Translation: Puerto Escondido is a serious surf town, with a "let's get surfing better" vibe, but it's still not "easy" in the way somewhere like Waikiki or parts of Sayulita can be.

😬 Why should I bother then?
Everyone loves it. And it changes people's lives, we're told.

Despite Puerto having a reputation for heavy waves (and crowds), beginners are describing it almost like a surf bootcamp.

Most find it incredibly motivating. Perhaps it has something to do with the perfect storm of warm water, surf-centric and aspirational culture, and super-easy access to surf schools and surf coaches.

If you go, do let us know if you come back obsessed with Puerto Escondido.

^{PIC OF THE WEEK}

🦙 Alpacas on the beach

Pic by Tina Heaney

We’ve seen photos of horses on the beach, pigs swimming, and even a cow.

But have you ever seen any alpacas enjoying the surf?!

Our own Tina Heaney captured this scene on her local beach: Long Sands Beach, Maine.

It was one of those rare mornings when Tina wasn't actually surfing. Because, and I quote: "it was disorganized."

Thank you for sharing, Tina!

^{LATEST FROM GIRLS WHO CAN’T SURF GOOD}

💬 3 things we’re figuring out this week

🏖️ Where do beginner longboarders surf in Huntington Beach? Community top picks: Bolsa Chica (Tower 18, surf school crowd), Wahine Kai meetup at Towers 22-24, Seal Beach Jetties (close by, super chill vibe).

🌴 Looking for a Bali (or nearby) surf camp for two friends with mixed beginner levels: one wants all-inclusive vibe, the other prefers flexibility. Community top picks: LMBK in Lombok, Pelan Pelan Bali, WaveHouse Bali, Lombok Surf Camp (social but not party).

🌺 Planning Oahu in October, beginner-intermediate. Community top picks: Hook Up Surfing (Ivan & Jen), Moku Surf for affordable rentals in Waikiki, Quality Surf for week-long rentals with board swaps, White Plains for less crowded sessions, North Shore Surf Girls.

👉 Join us for more recs, chatter & support

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Steamer Lane & sea lion fights. Teenage and adaptive surf champions. Steph is GOAT. Dogs are surfing.

🦭 Surfer chased out of water by sea lion in New Zealand
A surfer in New Zealand was forced out of the lineup after being aggressively pursued by a territorial sea lion.

🥊 Lineup tensions go full fight club at Steamer Lane
A Santa Cruz surf session turned into a full-on shoreline brawl after a dispute over lineup etiquette reportedly involving cliff-jumping into the break.

🏄‍♀️ Hawaiʻi crowns first-ever high school surfing state champions
Hawaiʻi has officially held its first statewide high school surfing championships, with nearly 180 student surfers competing across Maui.

💛 Adaptive surfing championships underway in Waikiki
More than 90 athletes from around the world are competing this week at the Hawaiʻi Adaptive Surfing Championships in Waikiki.

👑 Steph Gilmore wins gold coast pro in comeback season
Stephanie Gilmore claimed her 34th WSL event win at Snapper Rocks, proving very quickly that writing her off was premature.

🐶 Dog surfing tour draws crowds in Pismo Beach
The World Dog Surfing Championship Exhibition Tour brought crowds, surf dogs, and mild confusion to Pismo Beach.

🏄‍♂️ Longest-running longboard contest returns to Santa Cruz
The Santa Cruz Longboard Union Invitational returns to Steamer Lane later this month with nearly 200 surfers expected to compete.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{THIS WEEK’S WEE SURF SHOPPE FIND}

🩴 Foldable flip flops under $10

Welcome to the weird and wonderful world of the Wee Surf Shoppe, where we feature fun, useful, cheap, widely reviewed, and highly rated surf and surf-adjacent stuffs.

(Okay, sometimes we sneak in something outrageous and obscenely expensive, but only in Surf Indulgences.)

This week's find pulls triple duty: beach, travel, and your suitcase.

You know how the sand gets too hot to walk across from the parking lot, but you don't want to sacrifice your good flip flops in case you leave them behind?

Or how you're fully packed and just remembered you don't necessarily want to go barefoot in your hotel room or surf camp showers?

Introducing: foldable, lightweight, no-slip flip flops 🩴

I came across these earlier this week, ordered them in pink, and I'm now getting them in a couple more colors. Because honestly, you can't beat $7.59 (or $8.40 if you're as big-footed as me).

👉 Check them out

^{JUST IN ALL THINGS SURF DIRECTORY}

🪩 Ready to party at your first surf contest?

Pic by Bengt Nyman

We said: party. Because the cheering, the post-heat hangs, the "did you SEE that?!", the women who came second buying drinks for the women who came first—that is totally a party.

And paddling out as part of an all-women lineup is pretty great and a party in itself.

If you're contest-curious, mark your calendar:

🏄‍♀️ Sea Her Surf Women's Surf Contest. Cocoa Beach, FL. August 29, 2026. Open to all levels. Built around sisterhood, sportsmanship, and the idea that every surfer has a place in the lineup.

If you're contest-curious but contest-terrified (this is normal), three coaching spots from the directory to help you get ready:

🌴 ISA Level 2 Female Surf Coach. Rincón, Puerto Rico. ISA-certified, Red Cross lifeguard, longboard and shortboard. A feminine-led approach focused on flow, timing, and confidence. Limited weekly slots.

🌊 Women's Surf Collective. Santa Cruz, CA. Private coaching, custom surfboards, and retreats for women in Santa Cruz and internationally.

❄️ Cold Water Sirens. Nordjylland, Denmark. Feminist surf coaching and ocean-based therapy, for people whose access to surf culture isn't always easy: gender, age, mental health, or mobility.

👉 More events and coaches in the directory

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—because of course
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy National Oatmeal Cookie & Raisins + Bubble Tea Day! Also—Honesty Day, which honestly fits perfectly with this week’s surfodrama—dating and surfing, and not having fun doing it either.

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• Let’s surf together goes wrong 😝

• Mad to surf the Severn Bore 🤪

• Let’s break some swell windows 🪟

• Pic of the week: Supergirl at Jaws 🌅

• A very big surf news roundup 📰

• Sunscreens. Stickers. Surf stuffs. 😎

^SURFODRAMA

😱 Let’s surf together goes very wrong 😝

Have you heard the one about “alpine divorce”?

Just in case you were lucky enough not to: alpine divorce is when a dude (usually a dude) leaves a girl (usually a girl) in a remote, dangerous, or difficult hiking situation to fend for herself.

Now imagine this, but surfing.

Two people go on vacation. Let's call them Jack and Jill. Jack: experienced surfer. Jill: non-surfer who wants to learn. Because surfing is something couples do together, n’est pas?

Picture this: Jack paddles out to the lineup, catches some waves, chills. Jill gets stuck in the whitewash, doesn't know how to get out, and gets worked. Same ocean, completely different experiences.

Cue the surfodrama. Jack sets the expectation: “Maybe in a week you'll be out in the lineup with me.” Jill rises to the challenge, signs up for lessons, and tries to deliver on the promise of surfing together. And fails. Because of course. It’s surfing.

💭 The surfing fantasy vs reality
There's a version of surfing that exists in people's heads. Slow rolling waves at golden hour. Two people paddling out together, catching a few, laughing, whoop whooping each other, maybe sharing a party wave. Fun.

Then there's actual surfing. Where lifelong surfers have no real memory of what it's like to be a beginner, and beginners can't fathom why the crusties are so nonchalant about something that feels impossible.

🧱 Beginner surfing is a brick wall
Beginner surfing is not a gentle ramp. Actually, it’s not a ramp at all. It’s a brick wall. For a long time it feels like no progress at all.

If it doesn't feel fun yet—that's normal. If it feels hard, frustrating, occasionally miserable—also normal.

So when someone says “let’s just have a chill surf together,” it's normal to hear “I should be able to do that by now, why can't I do it by now?”

What's not normal is expecting yourself to fast-forward onto someone else's timeline. Not in a week. Not on vacation. Not happening.

🍸 The actual solution that does not involve “dumping his ass”
The way out is simple, if not easy: either separate the surf and meet up after for cocktails and snuggles, or Jack meets Jill where she is and they both ride smaller waves. Hell, maybe he gives her a wee push.

What I hope doesn't happen:

Jack and Jill went up the hill
To fetch a pail of water;
Jack fell down and broke his crown
And Jill came tumbling after.

Sucks to be Jill. Sucks to be Jack.

^{SURF SPOT SPOTLIGHT}

🤪 Mad to surf the Severn Bore

Pic by Ruth Sharville

It may work more often than your local break—up to 130 days a year, twice a day—and you may get the ride of your life—40 minutes and counting. Yes, 40 minutes. But in our humble opinion, you’d have to be absolutely mad to surf the Severn Bore.

🌳 Duck, weave, survive
“Ducking under branches and riding through bushes”, “riding under the railway bridge”, “looking at the cows in the fields”—all while fighting off kayakers and the occasional “odd dead animal”.

This is what you can expect when surfing the Severn Bore, one of the most famous bore waves in the world.

🌍 What even is this wave
The Severn Bore is a British “surf” break created by an incoming tidal surge funneling up the River Severn (220 miles long), about 100 miles west of London.

The Severn Estuary empties into the Bristol Channel and has the third-largest tidal range in the world—about 49 feet.

Quoting the Encyclopedia of Surfing: “The bore rolls upriver one hour before high tide, twice a day, with the biggest and best waves—usually waist-high, but sometimes up to six feet—arriving just after the full and new moons around the spring equinox.”

Six feet? You nuts?!

🗡️ Enter Mad Jack
The break was first surfed in 1955 by John “Mad Jack” Churchill, a World War II vet renowned for carrying a Scottish broadsword into battle.

He learned to surf after the war and, in 1955 at age 49, rode the Bore on a surfboard he made himself. See: “Mad Jack”. And I’m really hoping he didn’t surf with his sword…

In 2006, Steve King from Gloucestershire set a world record for the longest surfing ride on the Bore—7.6 miles.

⚠️ Should you surf it? (no!)
These days anyone can surf the bore, but not everyone—actually, no one—probably should. At least that’s the message straight from www.thesevernbore.co.uk.

There you’ll learn that even experienced surfers can encounter life-threatening situations. The bore can become overcrowded very quickly. Kayakers are Satan’s spawn. It’s easy to get knocked off your board, tangled in your leash, and dragged into nearby bushes. Not fun.

Honestly, the sight of brown, muddy water should put anyone off, but apparently it doesn’t. Surfers, paddleboarders, and kayakers compete for the wave and, on rare occasions, peacefully co-exist.

Just not like in this video:

But hey, if this sounds like fun to you—on yer head.

^{SURF SCIENCE}

🪟 Let’s break some swell windows

Pic by Phillip Caper

Swell direction, we all know and love. It’s the direction waves are coming from. You’ll see it in your surf forecast—hover over the little arrow and boom: SSW, WNW, etc.

🪟 Wait… what is a swell window?!
The Encyclopedia of Surfing describes it (poetically) as “a set of coordinates between a wave-producing storm and a surf break that, when met, will produce the best surf at that particular break.”

Translation: a swell window is the range of swell directions that can deliver wave energy to your break—cleanly, in a straight line—without getting blocked by coastline, islands, or underwater features.

Not all breaks are created equal. Some, like Huntington Beach, work year-round because they have a wide, open swell window—meaning swell can arrive from many different angles. Others, like Maalaea, have a tiny swell window and might only work a few days a season.

⏰ Swell window ≠ swell period
You hear a swell window, and you might be thinking of a swell period. But these two are different.

Swell period (also called swell interval) is the time between two consecutive wave crests passing a fixed point—like a buoy or offshore platform (that’s where forecast data comes from).

As waves travel away from the storm that created them, their period increases. And generally speaking, the longer the swell period, the better the waves—although local wind conditions can absolutely ruin the party.

It’s kind of wild that surfers only started paying attention to swell period in the mid-80s (again, shoutout to the Encyclopedia of Surfing).

🤯 Periods' impact explained
If you see an 8–10 second period, it’s likely local wind swell or overlapping swells (you know—primary + secondary on Surfline). Translation: messy.

If you see a juicy 20-second period, that swell has traveled a long way—and you’re getting longer, more evenly spaced waves.

And one more thing: swell period affects surf height. Longer-period waves carry more energy.

10 ft swell @ 14 seconds → ~12 ft surf
10 ft swell @ 20 seconds → ~20 ft surf

Not exactly scientific, but directionally pretty real.

And if you’re still unsure about the difference between swell height and surf height—we got you.

Now, how big is your local break’s swell window?

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Shark chase. Sharks at comps. Lakey wins. Steph last?! Wave pools rising. Legends remembered.

🦈 Shark chase, not a sighting
A foil surfer off Santa Barbara was chased by a shark that matched his speed and turns for minutes, turning a casual session into a full-on ocean sprint.

🦈 Sharks now attend competitions
A shark sighting paused the Vans Jack’s Surfboards Pro in Huntington Beach for 24 hours, proving even surf contests answer to the ocean.

🏆 Lakey Peterson is back back
Lakey Peterson won the Margaret River Pro with a last-minute score, jumping into a tie for first on the Championship Tour.

😬 Steph Gilmore…dead last?!
Stephanie Gilmore is currently at the bottom of the rankings after two losses, in a format that leaves little room to ease back in.

🌊 Florida builds its own waves
Florida’s first major surf park is underway, promising consistent, customizable waves in a state better known for waiting than riding.

🏛️ Surf history, now on display
A new museum in West Palm Beach is opening with over 100 boards and a century of surf history, spotlighting Florida’s surprisingly deep roots in the sport.

🕊️ Aloha spirit, embodied
Paul Strauch has passed away at 83, leaving behind a legacy that helped shape modern surfing and define what people mean by “Aloha spirit.”

🎙️ The king, speaking for himself
Duke Kahanamoku appears in a resurfaced 1966 interview, offering a rare, firsthand glimpse into the origins of modern surfing.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{PIC OF THE WEEK}

🌅 Supergirl at Jaws

Pic by Brandon Kirk

Wow! Just wow! I spotted this pic last week on Threads, and reached out to Brandon Kirk who took it to get permission to share it with you.

And I’m so glad that I did, because I got to hear the story behind it.

Maddie Anzivino known as @maddiesouthbay is the only girl lifeguard on the North Shore.

Last week, Maddie messaged Brandon: “I think I’ll be going to Jaws this weekend.” when the forecast unexpectedly shouted: good waves.

Good they were indeed, described as near perfect and uncrowded.

And the ride? This must’ve been absolute perfection for Maddie.

^{WEE SURF SHOPPE}

😎 Sunscreens. Stickers. Surf stuffs.

This is officially becoming our Wee Surf Shoppe always-on segment where we share fun and useful surf stuffs. And show off our merch.

Need a sunscreen? We have put together a shortlist based on the recommendations from our community.

👉 Check out sunscreens and/or get a sticker to support The Wipeout Weekly

^{ALL THINGS SURF DIRECTORY}

🌴 Don’t miss out on a surf retreat of a lifetime. Or a surf comp!

Ever wanted to be a contender? Now’s your chance if you happen to reside in Southern California or are willing to travel.

Ocean and Her is hosting an all-women surf comp in Manhattan Beach on May 9.

Need more time to plan? There’s a surf retreat for 40+ gals planned for late November in Lombok.

👉 Check out the directory for more surf stuffs

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy weekend! A big thank you to everyone who responded with suggestions on how to make The Wipeout Weekly even more riveting and useful! 😜 Stickers are on their way. Ideas—always welcome, payment in…stickers, obviously.

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• Are you a granola surfer? 🤯

• When to fix your wetsuit 🧵

• Down the line, off we go 🏄‍♀️

• Mission: Impossible pic of the week 🌅

• Surf news roundup 📰

• Who the hell is Wee Fatty? 🦦

^SURFODRAMA

😱 Are you a granola surfer? 🤯

There Will Be Blood. But… make it surfing.

Whaaat? A granola surfer? Let me explain. One of the surf mags, The Inertia, did a story on 15 ironies of surfing. Ironies mostly applicable to experienced surfers like its author.

One commentator called him out on being a “granola surfer” (I only understood this nickname in context), conveniently forgetting that surfing is “one of the most environmentally unfriendly activities on earth.”

Oh the irony!

🤯 Wait…what?
That stopped me in my tracks. Whaaat? Surfing is not environmentally friendly? I swear I wear reef-safe sunscreen and when I pee in the ocean it is merely water!

How can this statement even be true?

Short answer: it’s not true in the way that comment suggests—but it’s also not totally wrong. It’s a classic oversimplification, with an annoying grain of truth.

🌊 The “clean” version of surfing
If you strip surfing back to the very basics, it’s about as “clean” as an ocean sport gets. No engines, no oil—unless it’s tow-in. No noise…well, unless it’s e-foiling. No permanent structures. Crap. Wave pools. No ongoing energy use except your own paddling power. At least that one still tracks.

So yes, from a pure activity standpoint, surfing sits much closer to swimming or hiking than anything industrial. Or even a more involved ocean sport like wakeboarding.

🧠 The weird middle ground
Because that’s where surfing lives—in this weird middle of being eco-friendly and not eco-friendly at the same time.

The act of surfing is low impact. It’s just you, the water, and your board (more on that in a moment). But then there’s everything around it, and that’s where things get a bit less…granola.

Surfboards are the obvious one. Most are made from petroleum-based foam, fiberglass, and resin. They don’t recycle easily, they break—especially when you’re learning, sorry—and the manufacturing process isn’t exactly gentle on the planet.

Wetsuits don’t help the case either. Traditional neoprene is petroleum-based, energy-intensive to produce, and difficult to recycle. There are better options now, but they’re not exactly everywhere yet.

And then there’s the one surfers don’t love talking about. Travel. The flights, the road trips, the “it’s only a quick mission” that somehow turns into a three-hour drive each way. One surf trip can outweigh years of just paddling out locally. That’s the part that quietly does the damage.

🌍 So is surfing actually bad for the environment?
No. That’s way too dramatic.

Put it next to motorsport, ski resorts, or golf courses and it doesn’t even come close. But put it next to running, swimming, or just existing and it’s definitely more resource-heavy than we might like to admit.

Which is kind of the point the commenter was trying to make—just with a sledgehammer.

Because, let’s face it, this isn’t really about facts. It’s about identity.

We like to see ourselves as nature-loving, ocean-protecting, eco-conscious humans. Reef-safe sunscreen only! And to be fair, a lot of that is true.

But there’s no denying that some very un-eco supply chains are hiding in the background.

So the critique isn’t that surfing is terrible. It’s that maybe it’s not quite as pure as we like to think.

And that’s still ok.

Just…a bit ironic.

^{SURF SCIENCE (AT LEAST WE THINK THIS IS SCIENCE)}

🧵 When to fix your wetsuit

There are two types of surfers in this world. The ones who replace their wetsuit the moment a sleeve starts fraying. And the rest of us. The granola surfers who want to keep our impact on Mommy Earth to a bare minimum.

Wetsuits can suffer a multitude of mishaps. They get worn down, stretched, yanked a bit too much, baked in the sun, and generally pushed to their limits.

Time in the surf is the biggest killer, but we tend to forget how surprisingly easily neoprene can get cut—by reef, rocks, seashells, fins, and, of course, our own fingernails. One awkward landing on a shallow section and suddenly you’ve got a mystery tear you don’t remember earning. Unless, of course, it’s from a chain-linked fence.

Our movements also put seams to the test, especially in high-movement areas like the underarms from paddling and…yes, the crotch. No idea what movement that entails.

🧪 How to fix your wetsuit the official way
If you go the “official” route (and by official, I mean something like a Quiksilver repair guide), the process is very methodical.

Clean the suit. Dry it fully—inside and out. Only then assess the damage and figure out how to approach the fix. Don’t even think about glue until everything is prepped. According to Quiksilver, if a tear is larger than five inches, you should probably talk to a repair pro.

Your repair kit will require neoprene glue, rubber gloves, a paintbrush for application, and a heavy round weight. Yes, a weight. Apparently, you use it to hold the tear open while applying glue. Mind blown.

Then it’s all about layers. Glue it, wait. Glue again, wait again. Only then press the edges together carefully. Leave it alone for at least an hour. Do not tempt fate. Once it’s properly bonded, apply a thin finishing layer of glue on top.

It’s a process.

Some committed surfers even add stitching on top for extra strength. If you go that route, don’t punch all the way through, just catch the surface layer.

🪡 How to fix wee holes
When you get a hole in a sweater, you grab a needle and thread and off you go. Sewing neoprene is not particularly fun—still easier than fixing a leather couch, though—but it can be done.

You’ll need a curved needle and nylon thread, and you basically lace it up like a shoe.

The same method works for larger tears too, but clean up the edges with scissors first. A clean edge = a stronger repair.

🧃 Left field surfer solutions
There are proper wetsuit repair tapes, neoprene cement, and patches.

But there’s also crazy glue and dental floss.

Yes! Waxed dental floss is strong, water-resistant, and weirdly perfect for small repairs. It’s the kind of hack that feels slightly unhinged until you realize it works. Threading a needle can be a bit of a challenge, though.

We should probably add that surfing in a ripped, hole-filled wetsuit can absolutely be done. It’s just not recommended.

🪦 When to call it a day
You’ll know when it’s time.

After spending far too long staring at your wetsuit thinking, “this is still structurally sound,” it starts to feel colder, crustier, and takes on more water. The branding fades.

Until then, if you can fix it, you probably should. As we’ve discovered this week, recycling wetsuits is not easy, and they’re not exactly eco-friendly.

Left field suggestion: wetsuits are expensive, so if you come across a good sale, grab one just in case.

You will need it eventually.

👉 And here’s how to care for your wetsuit when it’s still intact.

^{SURF SKILLS}

🏄🏻‍♀️ Down the line, off we go

There’s a very specific moment in surfing where things start to feel not the way you want them to be going.

You’re catching waves, the proper kind: green ones, totally unbroken. You paddle, you pop up fast, you ride straight to the beach. Because somehow—despite angling your takeoff, despite your best intentions—you just keep going straight.

You know you’re close. So close to being a proper surfer, you can almost taste it. And that’s the worst part.

Because everyone says the same thing: “Just go down the line.”

Oh. Cool. Thanks. Let me just have a wee coffee and off I go down the line.

🛜 The internet weighs in
When someone asked this exact question on Reddit, the responses came in fast. And reading through them feels a bit like being handed pieces of a puzzle, and you’re expected to put it together picture side down.

One person says it’s your pop-up. It has to be fast and clean so you can set up your bottom turn. Another says wave selection is the real issue. Someone else throws in that if you don’t engage your rail, you’ll just skip down the face no matter what you do.

Then someone casually drops: “Look where you want to go.” At this point, your blood starts boiling, and you sign up for a Surf Simply or Ombe subscription.

👀 The “look where you want to go” thing, again
This comes up again. And again. And again. We’ve written about it time and time again. We forget it the moment we wade into the water.

So, one more time. Look down the line. Always. And never at the nose, not at the beach, not at where your feet land after the pop-up. Down the line.

Because your body follows your head. Not metaphorically—literally. Because it’s the heaviest part of your body.

🏄‍♀️ But also…your body is doing weird things
At some point, someone explains something that feels more technical but actually unlocks a lot. This sounds promising—they call it “engaging the rail.”

You’re not meant to stand directly on top of your board. You’re meant to be slightly off it. Your center of mass shifts over the rail, not perfectly centered. Which feels wrong at first, because every instinct says “stay balanced.”

But balanced is exactly what sends you straight down into whitewash.

And that’s why, to go down the line, you have to lean into the wave. Engage that rail. It will feel more like being on your heels if you’re going backside, or on your toes if you’re going frontside.

Someone described it like riding down a snowy hill. If you keep your board flat, you slide straight down. If you angle the edge, you hold your line.

⚡ The other, not so helpful stuff
Even if we all hate hearing it, we will say it again. A slow or messy pop-up means you’re already late. Annoyingly, the pop-up does matter if you want to go down the line. You can get away with it if you want to go straight.

And then there’s the wave itself. You’ve got to know how to read it, where to sit on it, and what ride to expect. East Coast waves are not like West Coast waves. You will need to manage your expectations.

🧠 The real answer no one wants
Back to the puzzle. You need to piece it together. Angle your takeoff. Pop up quickly. Look where you want to go. Engage your rail. Shift your weight. Stay low. Relax your body. Let your shoulders follow your head.

If it sounds like a lot, it’s because it is. It all has to come together in a split second. We skip a step and it all starts falling apart. Argh.

There’s nothing to it. Successfully going down the line will only come from doing it badly, repeatedly, until our bodies figure it out faster than our brains can. Good luck to us all!

👉 And if you need help with bigger waves or pop-ups…

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Skiers almost ran surfing. Comeback after paralysis. Surfing as therapy. Drunk lifeguards. Statue drama.

🌊 Surfing almost got handed to the ski people
After a bizarre detour where U.S. Ski & Snowboard tried to take over Olympic surfing, USA Surfing is officially back in charge ahead of LA 2028.

🏄‍♂️ A surfer finds his way back after paralysis
San Diego surfer Collin Bosse is back in the water after a life-changing spinal injury, redefining what continuing in surfing looks like.

🧠 Surfing as therapy…again (but this time with a stroke)
UK wave pool founder Nick Hounsfield credits surfing with helping his recovery after a stroke, adding to the growing pile of “there’s something in this” stories.

🍺 Lifeguards, alcohol, and very questionable decisions
Three Honolulu lifeguards have been suspended after testing positive for alcohol on duty during severe conditions—yes, really.

🏖️ Newquay gets a surf statue (and people have thoughts)
A new surfer statue overlooking Towan Beach is already doing its job—drawing crowds, photos, and the full spectrum of opinions.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{PIC OF THE WEEK}

🌅 Surfing in the South Bay of LA

This week’s pic of the week is by Bo Bridges (@bobridges on Instagram), a self-described visual artist and entrepreneur.

Well, actually, it’s a shot from a video Bo took about a week ago in the South Bay.

Bo is also responsible for the iconic photo of Tom Cruise hanging off the side of a plane (while it took off and landed) in Mission: Impossible – Rogue Nation. Kudos.

^HOUSEKEEPING

🦦 Who the hell is Wee Fatty?

Good things come in threes. Meet Wee Fatty, our resident sea otter with a penchant for surfboards and holding hands.

Well, that’s Wee Fatty.
Don’t call her a surfboard thief—
No one should surf alone.
Found an old red paisley kerchief once,
Bandana Crew—all her idea.
The best surf buddy you could wish for.
Ridic cute. Floatsalot. Will hold hands.

👉 See our stuff

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy… to see you! The big story this week is… surf apps. But perhaps not in the way you think. Also, surf news is totally ridiculous. Pelicans! Who knew!

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• Do we even need surf apps? 😜

• Unstad Beach is chill(y) 🥶

• I surf now, did you know? 🏄🏻‍♀️

• Ridic surf news 🗞️

• Pic of the week 🌅

• The only shark you’ll want to meet 🦈

• Where will you retreat next? 🌴

^SURFODRAMA

😱 Do we even need surf apps? 😜

If you had to guess how many surf apps exist, what would you say? Five? Ten? Twenty? Try 40+.

Yeah, it caught us by surprise too. The research for this story was an eye-opening experience, and not in the best of ways. We put together a full surf apps roundup anyway, because ultimately, it's up to you.

1️⃣ The “find” problem
Here’s the thing though, despite the plethora of choices that feels like the buffet at Bellagio (that’s in Vegas, which apparently is getting a wave pool too), finding decent surfing apps is weirdly hard.

They’re poorly categorized, the descriptions are misleading, and you can’t filter by rating or number of reviews. The first two unpromoted results in the App Store when we searched? Surfing games. Cool, not what we needed.

So we did the work. We dug through the whole landscape and also asked our community—you—what you’re actually using.

2️⃣ The “need” problem
Then we asked the bigger, more interesting question: do any of these apps actually matter? Do we even need them?

Short answer: No, we don’t need surf apps. We’ve never needed them.

We didn’t need them in ancient Hawai’i, or when surfing returned from the dead in the early 1920s, or when it all exploded in the 50s, or when the shortboard revolution came. We didn’t even need them when Covid hit.

But we use them because surfing can be confusing as hell. Okay, so that was the short answer.

3️⃣ The “why” problem
The longer answer… We use surf apps because surfing these days can cause so much anxiety on so many different levels that it feels like we’d just feel safer with a wee app crutch.

The anxiety comes in many shapes and intensities:

“Is it even worth going out today?”
“But seriously, is it even worth going out today?”
“Am I getting any better at this?”
“Can someone tell me how I could get better at this?”
“I must get in shape to get better at this!”
“I don’t think I am getting better at this at all.”
“I wish there was someone who I could get better at this with.”
“I’m never getting better at this. I’ll stick to re-enacting surfing on my phone instead.”

Can the apps help? Yes and no, it depends.

But what they can do is create a false sense of certainty in a sport that is, fundamentally, unpredictable. Unpredictable because of conditions, the lineup, your own progress path, or fitness.

And that’s exactly why we want you to take all of this with a pinch of salt. Still, we do have a full list of different app categories with examples.

This story—very long, links—many, please continue reading online.

👉 Continue reading online

^{SURF SPOT SPOTLIGHTS}

🥶 Unstad Beach is chill(y)

We're all about tropical surf destinations and surfing without wetsuits, aren't we? But shouldn't we expand our horizons from time to time? You know, to grow as surfers. 😬

And Unstad Beach might be just the place.

A surf beach in the Norwegian Arctic, ringed by jagged mountains and fjords, with cold, deep water sending in swells that may have started building near Greenland.

It is remote, wild, and one of the best known cold water surf spots in Europe. You may get to see the Northern Lights, but we're promising nothing.

🌊 Arctic break for everybody
Technically, Unstad is for all abilities—but with some very important fine print.

The beach is usually the place for beginners, especially in summer, when the waves are gentler and more manageable. According to the local surf school, people start in waist-deep water and work their way out gradually, and with the right instruction, everybody gets up in the end.

The reefs and points are for experienced surfers and demand more confidence, wave knowledge, and comfort around rocks, currents, and a lot of power.

On the northern edge of the bay is Unstad Right, a high-quality, fast, reef break that can produce seriously good waves.

On the southern edge is Unstad Left, a long, fast, hollow point wave breaking over rocks. It is often described as one of the best lefts in the world, and it is a major reason pros and advanced surfers travel here.

Then there is the Garbage Dump, further outside. Advanced surfers only.

🌬️ Swell makes all the difference
Unstad works best with SW to NW swell, with WNW often singled out as the sweet spot.

The ocean off the coast of Unstad is about 500 metres deep, and because there is so little to interrupt the swell, waves can travel all the way from Greenland. You know what this means—more consistent waves!

The break can work on all tides, though the reef and point waves are best on low to mid tide, and it handles anything from waist-high to double overhead.

🧊 The vibes
Welcoming and mellow, though summer gets busier.

Surfing here has deep roots—it dates back to 1963, when some local guys went to sea, ended up in Australia, got introduced to surfing, and came home inspired enough to make their own boards in woodwork class, reportedly inspired by the cover of a Beach Boys record.

Since the 1990s it has been taken more seriously, and since 2007 the Lofoten Masters has helped put Unstad firmly on the international surf map. Many big-name photographers have made the trip in recent years, and the beach is now one of Europe's most iconic cold-water surf locations.

🧼 Water quality
Clean and cold. Sea temperature sits around 6°C / 43°F—full winter-kit territory. Cloudy days can make it feel about the same in and out of the water, which is a weird little Arctic bonus.

🧥 Wardrobe
You know it. Bring a proper winter wetsuit, neoprene hood, gloves, and booties. No, really. All of it. Even in summer, this is not boardshorts-and-a-rashie territory.

📅 Best time to surf
Unstad works all year, but the character of the place changes a lot with the seasons.

September to November is often highlighted as the best period—bigger, more stable swells arrive in autumn and winter, which is when experienced surfers come from all over the world for the better lefts and more powerful setups. Summer is the time for beginners, when the waves tend to be smaller and kinder.

⚠️ Hazards
Rocks, reefs, and rip currents. Cold water if you're not used to it, and it's pretty remote. The beach has a sandy middle section, though there can be quite a lot of seaweed.

✈️ How to get there
Unstad is on Vestvågøy, a Norwegian island, around 21 km east of Leknes. The closest airport is Bodø, about 116 km / 72 miles away, with Evenes the second nearest at around 129 km / 80 miles.

🤓 Fun fact
Unstad is home to Unstad Arctic Surf, reportedly the most northerly surf school in the world at 68 degrees north.

^{GIRL WHO SURFS AND WANTS EVERYONE TO KNOW IT}

🏄🏻‍♀️ I surf now, did you know?

Andrea will tell anyone who will listen that she is in fact a surfer. She lives in New Hampshire, she's a mom of two, and she came to surfing in her forties in the most unexpected way.

She's tried it before— twice—and it did not go well. 😬

But then something happened in Costa Rica that changed everything, and she hasn't stopped since.

She surfs cold New England winters. She takes herself on solo surf trips. She's raising two little surfers. And she has a lot to say about surrender. We loved this one.

👉 Read Andrea’s story

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Surfer gnawed by pelicans. Female surfer statue in trouble. Olympic surfing sold out. Australia gets a wave pool.

Terrifying. Pic by Bruce Lee

🐦 A surfer got attacked by pelicans (kind of)
A surfer in Huntington Beach was reportedly attacked by a group of pelicans in the lineup.

🗿 Santa Cruz is arguing over a surfer statue
In Santa Cruz, a proposed bronze statue of a female surfer has gotten a little out of hand.

🎟️ Olympic surfing tickets sold out immediately
Because of course they did.

🌊 Wave pools are getting… big
12 football fields size big to be precise.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{PIC OF THE WEEK}

🌅 Malibu days, Malibu nights

This week’s pic of the week is by Carlos Gauna better known to many of us as @themalibuartist.

Carlos usually terrifies surfers with his pristine drone footage of turquoise Pacific waters and following big juicy sharks from Malibu to Santa Monica, back and beyond.

I bet you he’s looking forward to this “sharky summer” we’ve been promised.

^{ALL THINGS SURF DIRECTORY}

✈️ Where will you retreat next?

In our All Things Surf Directory, surf retreats is the most popular category for sure.

The directory features smaller, independent surf retreats that you may not normally find on surf retreat aggregate websites. And we believe its a good thing.

So, where do you want to go next?

El Salvador? Morocco? Nicaragua? Costa Rica? Or maybe Australia, Indonesia or the Phillipines? There’s Portugal, Spain, and Denmark!

I wish I was minted and had spare vacation days. 😜

👉 Check out the directory

^HOUSEKEEPING

🦈 The only shark you’ll want to meet—Jaws ‘JJ’ Junior

We don’t even want you to buy the merch to support The Wipeout Weekly.

We just wanted to introduce our original mascot—Jaws ‘JJ” Junior.

Born to drop in. Waves wait for no one.
That’s Jaws “JJ” Junior.
Bloodlines of legends, mind of her own.
No such thing as a “bigger boat” to tame her.
She’s got no time for lineup politics—and eats locals for breakfast.

Yes, we are shark-obsessed.

👉 See our stuff

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy New Order! We’re mixing it up this week—less heavy opinions, more fun stuffs, and newsworthy drama. A poem. What could possibly go wrong? 😜

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• To fly or not to fly with your surfboard ✈️

• Hydrofoilers have all the fun 🤩

• Just go left at Mavericks 👈

• Need room to surf? 🏠

• Even more surf news 🗞️

• Meet Olo 🐓

• From the perfect wave 🔜 the watery grave

^SURFODRAMA

😱 To fly or not to fly with your surfboard ✈️

First of all, if you’re reading this—congratulations! A surf trip is in your future.

To fly or not to fly with your surfboard… it’s not a simple yes or no. There are so many things to consider. But the most important one isn’t whether—it’s why.

Why do you want to fly with your surfboard?

I see surfers falling into two camps: the performers and the pragmatics.

⚖️ Your “to fly or not or not to fly with your surfboard” camp
Some surfers strongly believe that confidence in the surf comes from familiarity and wouldn’t be parted from their boards for fear of missing out on better performance in good waves.

Especially if local rentals are a bit of a shitshow. If time is of the essence, having a board you’re familiar with and comfortable on means you won’t be wasting any of your sessions adapting. And there, of course, is the unquantifiable: if you have a fancy, non-beginner board, the locals may look at you with silent admiration rather than disdain. If you’re driven by performance and have a bit of a regular surfer ego, you will fly with your surfboard.

Other surfers are more pragmatic. They may be primarily concerned with airlines breaking their boards or having to pay extraordinary fees for transport. Is the stress and hassle of it all worth it? Possibly not, and it’s fun trying new boards even if the cost works out higher than bringing your own.

We’re here to make it easier for you to make these decisions. Let’s tackle it one by one. But before we begin, let me say it, and then repeat several times in this story: always check your airline’s surfboard policy.

Do not rely on any information that you read on any website that is not your airline’s official website (i.e. Surfline has a guide from 2024 or Google’s AI overview), because these policies change pretty often. Better still, call customer service so you have proof of their advice on record—I would, but then again I am slightly paranoid and generally over-prepared.

The case in point for never flying with your surfboard

😂 Can you even?
Before we jump into the actual financial consideration of transporting your board across the world versus renting one, consider a simpler question: can you even get your board on the plane?

If you’re a shortboarder, carry on. But if your board exceeds certain parameters, the airline you fly with may not allow it at all. Typically, airlines limit the overall size of a board to 115 linear inches (that’s your length + width + height).

Most surfboards are 20″–23″ wide and 2.5″–3.25″ thick, so it’s the length that will tip you over. If you’re surfing a six footer, it will easily fit under 115 linear inches, but a 7’6” in a bag (oh yes, it’s the board in the bag that counts) may trigger oversized fees or you may not even be able to fly at all. I don’t want to think about you having to make a decision between not flying at all or flying out without your board and leaving it with the agent, who then decides to adopt it. Check the airline policy.

🚗 How will you get it to and fro?
Minor point, and hopefully you have friends who can help, or robust public transport that will allow you to get the board and all your luggage easily to the airport and from the airport to your destination

If you’re not hiring a car and bringing your surf racks, this may complicate things further.

🤷‍♀️ Wouldn’t it be just easier to rent?
If you’re not one of the performance-driven surfers, it may sometimes be cheaper to rent a board than fly your surfboard over. Providing, of course, there are rental places nearby and they offer a selection of boards to your satisfaction at a reasonable cost.

The advantage may be that you get to try out a few new boards. Also—if you’re staying in a hotel that doesn’t provide board storage—it may be less hassle to get a board on an hourly or daily basis.

But make sure you check the opening times if you’re into dawn patrols or nighttime surfing. This may be a make or break whether you fly with your surfboard.

If only your own board will do then…

🤑 Can you handle the cost?
Throughout history, there have been a few surfboard companies that have attempted to make collapsible or foldable surfboards, with a simple pitch: now you can stick it in your suitcase and take it anywhere. Anyone here lucky enough to own a foldable surfboard? Precisely.

There are nice airlines that let you check in your board bag as checked luggage and there are not-so-nice airlines that will charge you oversize fees. The same airline’s niceness may differ depending on the route or whether a flight is direct or has a stopover.

We’re talking about anything from zero dollars (if you get your checked luggage for free) to a hundred-plus dollars. Reminder: always check your airline’s policy and make sure your board bag is within the measurement and weight limits.

Because if you decide to fly with two surfboards (usually the limit), it may tip you over the weight limit, typically 50 lbs. Your board bag can be heavier than the limit, but then it will drift into the oversize territory.

Lest we forget about the cost of a delayed or lost board. You may recoup it down the line, but the risk of getting your vacation ruined still exists. But, but, but…

👩‍🔧 Can you live with dings?
You know how when your suitcase gets badly damaged during air transport you are entitled to compensation? Now try to file a claim for dings or scratches or even a break. Who’s to tell that the board wasn’t broken before you put it in the bag?

Your beloved board is damaged, or you don’t even have a board to surf on and have to rent one anyway. Okay. It doesn’t happen that often.

Based on our research, there are plenty of surfers who traveled with their boards and never experienced any issues. This may also be dependent on what your board is made of. I once had an epoxy board that was simply indestructible and most likely terrible for the environment. Some boards are more delicate. Which brings us to…

🧳 How do I pack this thing?
Volumes have been written about how to pack your board for its flying adventure. I have flown across the Atlantic with both guitars and surfboards, and nothing gives you more peace of mind than a super sturdy bag or case.

And these board bags can get really expensive. Like, surfboard-price expensive in the $300–$600 range. The big plus is the extra space for wetsuits, extra fins, and overflow soft luggage items.

The airlines require that the fins are removed before checking in your bag. Then it’s the issue of wrapping your surfboard into a cocoon to prevent any damage. Inflatable pool noodles are very popular for protecting the rails, as well as foam pipe insulation. Bubble wrap at will: the nose and tail, the top and bottom, and finally encase your board in extra clothes.

🤔 Or you could…
Flying with a surfboard or renting a surfboard are not the only options at your disposal. You could also buy a board at your destination and either sell it after you’re done with it, leave it with a new friend (big karma points), or fly back with it. If you’re certain you will be flying back with a surfboard, plan ahead and bring your board bag with you.

Honestly, only after you’ve flown a few times with a surfboard will you know for sure what works for you. Because the cost/risk analysis will depend on every destination and airline. Our advice to beginners—treat this as your opportunity to try something new. No need to check in your Wavestorm. We know you wouldn’t.

^{SURF STORY OF THE WEEK}

🤩 Hydrofoilers have all the fun

Not fair. Why do hydrofoilers get to have all the fun?

A hydrofoil surfer in Hawai’i, Eric Sterman, had one of those moments that is equal parts “this is why I surf” and “I’m never going in the ocean again.”

He was filming himself riding when a massive whale suddenly breached right next to him—close enough that you can hear the sheer disbelief in his voice as he yells, “Are you kidding me?” The whale slaps its tail, sending a huge splash through the water, and then just… disappears back into the ocean like nothing happened.

😬 This happens every day…not
What’s wild is that Eric said seeing whales out there isn’t unusual for him. It’s actually pretty common. What’s not common is catching something like this on camera, especially in choppy conditions where visibility is limited and you’re mostly just trying to stay upright and not eat it.

Okay, maybe it wasn’t that fun. Just a reminder that these animals are enormous and mostly invisible until they’re suddenly not. Whale tail slaps are thought to be used for communication or to stun prey.

Dealer’s choice in this scenario. But the video is positively insane.

^{SURF PIC OF THE WEEK}

👈 Just go left at Mavericks

Pic of the week by Fred Pompermayer

We were today years old when we learned that you can go left at Mavericks thanks to a pic of Will Skudin—a pro surfer from Long Beach, New York—captured by Fred Pompermayer.

It seems that every surfer on earth wants to surf Pipeline, but still, there are very few shouting from the rooftops that they want to surf Mavericks in Northern California.

If you’re into learning more about Mavericks, may we recommend a story featuring yours truly and Gerard Butler.

👉 Read “I loved how you almost died at Mavericks”

^{ALL THINGS SURF DIRECTORY}

🏠 Need room to surf?

Your room to surf in Mexico

All Things Surf Directory is growing—we just added the surf-side lodging listings!

We got upcoming surf retreats and events, recommended surf businesses and community listings. Browsing is free, posting is free.

We’re aiming to make it the number one destination for all things surf. You know, aiming low. 😜

👉 Check out the directory

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Cyclone in Aus. Hawaii goes high school. Maverick’s Zoe. More Waco. Surfing in Gaza.

🌊 Cyclone swell incoming for Australia
Tropical Cyclone Vaianu is sending a long, clean, multi-day swell to Australia’s east coast, with waves building from fun to seriously pumping.

🏄‍♀️ Hawaii makes surfing a high school sport
Hawaiʻi has officially launched its first statewide high school surfing championship, bringing the sport into the formal school system at scale.

🌊 19-year-old charging Maverick’s the right way
Zoe Chait is rising through the big wave ranks with a grounded, earn-your-place approach that’s getting serious respect on the North Coast.

🏠 Wave pool living is now a thing
Waco Surf is building a $1.6M surf community around artificial waves, pushing surfing further into the “live here, not visit” territory.

💔 Surfing in Gaza is barely surviving
War has devastated Gaza’s surf community, leaving only a handful of surfers and boards while some still risk everything to get in the water. The Intertia has a big feature on it.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^HOUSEKEEPING

🏄‍♀️ Ads or stickers? No need to decide now. Just meet Olo.

There are no ads in The Wipeout Weekly. No subscriptions either. Publishing a listing on the All Things Surf Directory is also free.

That’s why we wax lyrical about Da Merch. But you know… whenever you’re ready. And then, use a promo code for 20% off: SURFGOOD

For now, meet our mascot—Olo the Rooster 🐓

Olo—confidence incarnate.
Not your average Hawaiian rooster.
Claims he rode Pipeline once—no photos.
Says he taught Duke the headstand trick.
Doesn’t wear a leash, but a total stickler for lineup rules.

👉 Click here. Be our hero

^{SURF POEM OF THE WEEK}

🌊 The perfect wave 🔜 the watery grave (figuratively, we hope)

This is a fun wee poem by Shel Silverstein—who, it turns out, was evidently obsessed with riding the perfect wave.

It goes like this:

Dave McGunn was a surfin’ bum, half–crazed by the blazin’ sun.
From Waikiki to the Bering Sea, he rode ’em one by one.
Now he hung offshore ’bout a mile or more, out where the dolphins played,
And his wild eyes gleamed as he schemed and dreamed
To ride the perfect wave.

👉 Keep reading—it’s worth it

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy post–April Fools! No jokes today—apart from maybe our main story, which does sound a bit like one. Then again, so does surf culture sometimes.

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• Surfers say the stupidest things 🤡

• Aerialist or a flying squirrel? 🐿️

• Bring a first aid kit to the break ⛑️

• Super stacked news 🗞️

• Be our hero 🦸‍♀️

^SURFODRAMA

😱 Surfers say the stupidest things 🤡

At The Wipeout Weekly, we are gluttons for stupid things surfers say.

We just want to hug these poor, misguided sea creatures and hold them in a mothering bear hug long enough for the stupidity to pass. Sometimes, we just have to hug ourselves to keep us honest.

Drama #1️⃣
Like just this week, on a social network that rhymes with “read it”—a beginner surfer complained that an instructor told them they’ll probably never see a shortboard in their life.

Suddenly, no fewer than 150 surfers had a stake in this surfodrama. The conditions must’ve been atrocious.

We had the realists (“shortboards are hard”), the optimists (“you can do anything”), and a few insufferable a-holes doing their best 1990s surf bro impression.

And finally, a small group who actually knew what they were talking about—and explained what’s really going on: you gotta put in the hours. Shortboarding is accessible to most, but not efficient or fun early on for most beginners.

Yet few recognized that the surf coach was either a total douche—or just said something careless without thinking about the impact. And even fewer advised the surfer to just get on with their surfing journey and pay no attention.

Drama #2️⃣
Then, on a social network that rhymes with “anagram”, surf influencer Jonathan Wayne Freeman got himself into trouble for rating women surfers’ bodies—specifically their buttocks—prompting:

Tick all that apply:
a) backlash over his comments
b) support for “speaking the truth”
c) outrage over skimpy clothing
d) jokes not safe to print

Once again, few stopped, narrowed their eyes, pointed their fingers and exclaimed: Rage bait! Because the line between entertainment and respect in surf culture has blurred so much—you need a magnifying glass.

Surf culture was strange to begin with, but social media took its weirdness to the next level. Dare we say it, it made it worse?

Talking about surfing online became no different than talking about politics. Everyone’s an expert—and no one’s actually in the water.

We keep discovering time and time again that surf culture has barely evolved—or perhaps even regressed.

Online, experienced surfers cannot stand kooks, middle-aged men think it’s fine to comment on women’s bodies, and some women feel empowered to tell off other women about their surf fashion—and so on.

It’s almost as if we should just go surfing instead. Whatever the conditions.

And remember: surfers say the stupidest things. 😜

^{WORD OF THE WEEEK}

🐿️ Are you an aerialist or a flying squirrel?

Ever wanted to become an aerialist? It might help to understand what it actually takes—and where it even came from.

Imagine a world where aerials didn’t exist in surfing. It wasn’t that long ago, because an aerial only came onto the scene in the 1970s and came into its own in the 1990s, when it became its own branch of surfing with aerial specialists and aerial-only competitions.

🛹 From skate parks to surf breaks
Now, how did we get here? You may remember that surfing came before skateboarding, but skateboarding airs came first—and influenced surfing airs.

An aerial (or air) happens when a surfer launches herself off the wave crest into, well, air, performs one of the board-and-body-torquing maneuvers, and lands back on the wave face. Aerials tend to be performed in waves under six feet.

Matt Warshaw, the surfing historian, considers the aerial revolution a slow one: “Surfboards couldn’t be gripped and handled in the air as easily as skateboards, and waves, unlike pools, change shape constantly. The ‘chop-hop,’ an early and rightfully maligned aerial variant, was enough to keep most progressive surfers working on deep turns and tuberides,” he said.

💫 The aerial revolution
As slow as it might’ve been, the evolution of aerial surfing was pretty colorful. Early on, the surf media called the aerialists “flying squirrels,” and some surfers didn’t consider it true surfing.

But then, in the 1980s, John Holeman from the East Coast performed a 360-degree aerial rotation, and Christian Fletcher and Matt Archbold of San Clemente, CA, started lifting four or five feet above the crest—and everyone lost their shit about aerials.

The air vocabulary also grew, and we were rewarded with “mute air,” “indy air,” “slob air,” “madonna,” and “stalefish”—it’s all to do with hand placement on the board, you see. Then, Kelly Slater made aerials mainstream, and strapped tow-in pushed the evolution and air height even further.

🚀 How to launch one yourself
What does it take to perform an air? I am definitely not speaking from experience, but it starts with wave selection. Look for a medium-sized, powerful wave with a strong lip to launch off. Then, you need to build speed by pumping. Stay in the pocket or curl of the wave!

As you approach the lip, perform a shallow bottom turn to maintain speed and angle your board to project upward—not straight up. Finally, coil your body like a spring before hitting the lip, then extend your legs and lift your arms to launch off the wave. A slight push with your front foot at the lip can help launch the board.

Once you get great at it, you can head to the Stab High competition sponsored by Monster Energy (you’ve just missed it—it was last week in Sydney).

Alas, Red Bull Airborne hasn’t taken place for a few years now. Shame, because I heard it gives you wiiiiings.

^{SURF SKILLS}

⛑️ Bring a first aid kit to the break

Surfing ain’t easy. Ever. It’s hard when you start. It’s hard when you progress. It’s hard when you’re good. And it gets harder as time passes by. You’re either on the bus or you’re off the bus, but we are leaving!

The last thing we want to hear is that we should bring a first aid kit when we’re going out. Because surfing is supposed to be a delightful pastime—not some dangerous endeavor that leaves you scarred for life.

But recently—more often than ever—we’re hearing about surfers becoming lifeguards themselves, rescuing swimmers caught in rip currents or fellow surfers stuck on rocks.

We don’t assume everyone is trained to perform open ocean rescue, but we want you to be prepared if your surf buddy gets into trouble.

🦸‍♀️ No lifeguard around
Here’s what to do when your buddy gets smacked by a board in the surf and there’s no one else to help:

• Ask them if they’re okay, if they can paddle, where it hurts

• Help them out of the water

• Check for bleeding, disorientation, or any signs of head or spinal injury

• If it’s minor, make sure they rest, hydrate, and monitor for signs of shock (paleness, dizziness, shallow breathing)

• Rinse the injury with fresh water

• If it’s bleeding heavily, apply pressure with a towel or shirt

• If it looks serious, don’t move them—get help

You might’ve heard about BWRAG, the Big Wave Risk Assessment Group, and the courses they offer in ocean safety. They’re available to surfers at any level and teach lifesaving skills that apply to waves of all sizes—from 2-foot rollers to Mavericks monsters.

It’s not a cheap affair—$500+ for a two-day course (we don’t think lunch is even included)—but we hear it’s absolutely worth it.

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Girls win big. Kelly’s new pool. New book on surfing in Florida.

🌊 Surf tour returns with Moore, Gilmore, Medina back
The 2026 WSL Championship Tour kicks off with the return of Carissa Moore, Stephanie Gilmore, and Gabriel Medina, mixing veteran power with a new generation across 12 global stops.

🇬🇧 Alys Barton becomes first uk surfer to qualify for challenger series
Alys Barton makes history as the first UK surfer to qualify for the Challenger Series, highlighting both progress and the financial realities of competing globally.

🚗 Lexus adds Caroline Marks to its surf ambassador roster
Lexus signs Olympic gold medalist Caroline Marks as it deepens its investment in pro surfing and athlete-driven brand partnerships.

🌊 Kelly Slater’s 2,000-foot wave pool is coming to Texas
A massive surf park in Austin will feature a ~2,000-foot wave basin, luxury amenities, and big name investors, blending surfing with real estate and lifestyle development.

📚 Cocoa Beach writer spotlights Florida surf culture in new book
A new book explores the history and impact of Florida’s Space Coast surf scene, showing how it shaped East Coast surfing beyond the usual hotspots.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^HOUSEKEEPING

🏄‍♀️ Keep us ad-free. Get yourself something cool, cute—or both 😏

We don’t know if you’ve noticed, but there are no ads in The Wipeout Weekly. No subscriptions either. And no promos in the Girls Who Can’t Surf Good group.

But just like Jamie Lee Curtis said in Trading Places: “Taxis cost money, food costs money, and rent costs money.”

Running this also costs money.

If you’d like to support The Wipeout Weekly, we’ve got our own range of Da Merch. Every purchase goes directly toward keeping this newsletter and site going.

Plus our merch stuff is really fun. We won’t embarrass you!

And since everyone likes a promo code, here’s one for 20% off: SURFGOOD

👉 Click here, be a hero

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy almost weekend! This edition almost reads like the big wave edition, but if you’re into ankle slappers like some of us, don’t feel discouraged.

Because our main story this week answers the second most asked question in surfing: when to downsize? 🤔

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• When to downsize—but like for real 😳

• Word of the Week: Tow-in surfing 🚤

• Meet the ancient Hawaiian trio 🌺

• The biggest ridden—or was it? 🌊

• Some excellent surf news. Some less so. 🗞️

^SURFODRAMA

😱 When to downsize—but like for real 😳

“When can I downsize” is the second most popular question among surfers. It naturally follows the first most popular question among beginner surfers: what should my first surfboard be?

We certainly do seem to care about equipment more than anything else in surfing.

🐌 You don’t have to downsize
Downsizing is not, in fact, a required milestone in your surfing journey.

The accepted truth in the surfing community is: if you’re thinking you’re ready to downsize, you’re more likely not ready to downsize.

But we do want to bring you one step closer.

Here are a few scenarios when you might consider downsizing your board:

Super early in your surfing career, you may benefit from downsizing if the original board you’re learning on is simply too big or too wide for you, making learning challenging or physically uncomfortable. This typically happens if you’re not as tall as the average surfer or your wingspan is on the shorter side.

If you’re moving to a different surf spot with completely different conditions—i.e. super fast closeouts—you may downsize if riding your original board becomes too dangerous for those conditions. Getting smacked by a 10-foot log instead a 7’6” midlength may just save your life. Or seek a surf spot better suited to the board you own.

Once you feel you can no longer progress on your original board is also a good time to consider a change.

Typically, surfers are advised to downsize when they’ve mastered pop-ups, can ride down the line, want a more responsive board, and have more control over it. All fair.

🦋 Longer boards and shorter boards catch waves differently
But one thing we tend to forget is that longer boards and shorter boards catch waves differently.

On a bigger board, you can pretty much catch a wave from almost anywhere: far back, on the shoulder, at the peak, even once it has broken.

To catch a wave on a shorter board, you generally need to take off at the peak or you’ll have a miserable time. Meaning, you’ll want to consistently be able to take off at the peak on your longer board before switching. Otherwise, you may go a very long time without catching anything.

🐛 Not all downsizing is the same
It’s worth noting that there are a few types of “downsizing,” too. You may be going from your 8ft foamie to a 7’6” or 7’4” midlength, or opting for a more dramatic downsize to a shortboard of 6’6” or smaller. Whatever your downsize journey is, you will not want to rush it.

If you must, also take into consideration that going shorter usually means less volume, which makes catching waves and paddling even harder.

The biggest tip we can offer when downsizing: don’t get rid of your original board just yet. It’s a process. And sometimes you actually need to go back in order to start enjoying surfing again.

^{WORD OF THE WEEEK}

🚤 Tow surfing aka the thing most of us will never do

Word of the week—or more like concept of the week—is tow surfing, or tow-in surfing. That other kind of surfing that we don’t usually do, because we’re not nuts enough to surf gigantic waves.

🏊‍♀️ When paddling just isn’t enough
There’s a point where the ocean just gets too big. Too fast. Too heavy. Where paddling becomes just not enough. That’s where tow-in surfing comes in—the method that allowed humans to ride waves once thought completely unrideable.

Tow-in surfing involves using a jet ski to tow the surfer into a massive wave. The goal is to slingshot the rider into a building-sized swell, let go of the rope, and ride the beast before it swallows you whole.

The jet ski gives the surfer the speed they could never generate on their own—essential for catching waves moving as fast as 40–50 km/h (25–30 mph) or more. Tow surfers, by giving themselves a running start, broke the 30-foot wave barrier easily and continued riding ever-larger waves — well over 50 feet by 2001.

🔬 A Maui invention? Not quite.
You might’ve heard that the technique was pioneered in the 1990s by the Maui crew—most famously Laird Hamilton, Darrick Doerner, Dave Kalama, and Buzzy Kerbox.

But the idea for power-assisted surfing dates back to at least 1963, according to the EOS. “The surfer might be towed into the wave by a boat much like a water-skier,” California’s Mike Doyle wrote in Surf Guide magazine.

Then Hawaii’s Jim Neece tried using a speedboat-powered “water-ski takeoff” on smaller waves in 1974. He wanted to surf Ka‘ena Point—a break that gets big—but he abandoned the idea. In 1987, California’s Herbie Fletcher towed some surfers into 10-foot waves at Pipeline; in the fall of 1991, East Coast surfer Scott Bouchard was towed into a half-dozen 12-footers at a Florida break called RC’s.

Then the Strapped Crew happened. Hawaiians Buzzy Kerbox, Laird Hamilton, and Darrick Doerner began by using Kerbox’s inflatable Zodiac boat in late 1992 to tow each other into 15-foot waves at Backyards, near Sunset Beach on the North Shore of Oʻahu. Their exploits are documented in Riding Giants and Step Into Liquid. The Zodiac turned into a jet ski, and the crew went on to conquer Jaws (Peʻahi). And the rest is history.

🎨 Board design for tow-ins
Wait. One more thing. Traditional surfboards weren’t cutting it for these wave sizes, so they designed new boards—smaller than traditional guns, but heavier and with straps to stay connected during takeoffs that felt like being launched from a cannon.

Not everyone loved the idea of towing. This is from the Encyclopedia of Surfing again: “Critics said that tow-in was a blasphemy against the very nature of surfing—that drawing a bead on an incoming wave and paddling into a vertical drop was, in fact, the essence of big-wave riding. That the sport in general derived its beauty in large part from its lack of mechanization.”

And as such, the sport split in two. 99% paddle surfers, and 1% tow-in surfers—or more like surfer teams, since you can’t really do this on your own. In case you were wondering, a popular PWC (personal watercraft), the Yamaha WaveRunner, retails at $12,399.

^{SURF THRU HISTORY}

🌺 Meet the ancient Hawaiian trio

At The Wipeout Weekly we are somewhat obsessed with the Olo, the ancient Hawaiian surfboard of royalty. We like it because it’s long, thick, heavy, and we imagine popping up on this monster would be a doddle (that’s easy in Scottish).

But the Olo didn’t exist alone. Ancient Hawaiians rode several types of surf craft, most notably the Olo, the Alaia and the Paipo. Together they formed the foundation of Hawaiian surfing.

Each board represented a different way of riding waves.

👑 The Olo
The Olo was the board of Hawaiian royalty. It was enormous—anywhere between 17 and 22 feet long and weighing close to 200 pounds depending on the source. Made from wiliwili wood, the same lightweight wood used for canoes, the Olo was reserved for chiefs under the kapu system of sacred Hawaiian laws. Even by modern standards the board was huge. For comparison, a modern longboard weighs about 25 pounds. An Olo could weigh five times that.

Despite the sandy bottom under most Hawaiian waves, getting hit by one in the lineup would have been catastrophic. The board had no fin—fins wouldn’t appear until Tom Blake introduced them in 1935—and controlling a piece of wood that large required both strength and skill. When Tom Blake built a replica Olo in 1920 with Duke Kahanamoku, he wrote that the Duke did “some of the most beautiful riding” he had ever seen on it.

🏄‍♀️ The Alaia
Where the Olo was reserved for royalty, the Alaia was the board for everybody. It was the standard Hawaiian surfboard and the board most often seen in old photographs of surfers riding waves with Diamond Head in the background. The Alaia sat in the middle of the ancient board spectrum. At roughly six to seven feet long and about two inches thick, it was far smaller than the Olo but still large enough to paddle effectively into waves.

The Alaia had a rounded nose, a squared-off tail and a flat plank-like shape. It was thin, finless and relied entirely on the rider engaging the rails with the wave face for control. According to the Encyclopedia of Surfing, stand-up surfing as we know it today was first developed on Alaia boards. They paddled well enough to catch unbroken swells offshore, yet were maneuverable enough to ride steep, fast sections of waves.

👶 The Paipo
At the other end of the spectrum sat the Paipo, the smallest and most intimate of the ancient boards. Unlike the Olo and Alaia, which were ridden standing, the Paipo was usually ridden prone—lying on the stomach or occasionally kneeling. These boards were typically only three to five feet long and were designed less for floating and paddling than for planing quickly across the surface of the wave.

Because the rider’s body sat so close to the water, Paipo riding offered what surfers sometimes describe as “wave intimacy.” It felt closer to bodysurfing than traditional surfing. Some historians claim Paipos were mostly used by children, while others say both adults and kids rode them. In ancient Hawai‘i they were part of a broader system of surf craft that included the Olo, Alaia and other boards.

The Paipo never completely disappeared. In Waikik’i during the early twentieth century, beach boys rode plywood Paipos at the Kuhio Beach groin known as “The Wall.” Standing on a Paipo there was considered the ultimate achievement, and surfers like Valentine “Val” Ching mastered it. Later, riders such as Rabbit Kekai, Wally Froiseth and even Eddie and Clyde Aikau spent time on Paipos as well.

Modern bodyboards owe much of their design to these small wooden boards. Historians often call the Paipo the great-grandfather of the Morey Boogie Board.

Personally, I would still love to try the Olo. At that length and volume, I’m convinced my pop-up would improve dramatically.

And now you finally know why our rooster mascot is called Olo.

^{SURF SCIENCE}

🌊 The biggest wave ridden—or was it?

Do you know how big the biggest wave ever ridden was? Ha. No one knows, because no one can agree on the exact height.

Some of the biggest waves ever ridden have come out of places that barely looked surfable until quite recently. In recent years, Nazaré, Portugal, has become ground zero for wave-size madness thanks to its underwater canyon.

📜 The records, a few receipts missing
In 2011, Garrett McNamara put Nazaré on the map by riding a wave estimated at 78 feet, redefining what surfers thought was even possible in Europe.

That bar kept rising. In 2020, Sebastian Steudtner rode what Guinness later confirmed as the largest wave ever surfed—an 86-foot monster, also at Nazaré.

Steudtner is known for his methodical, science-driven approach, working with wind engineers, breath-hold specialists, and safety teams.

And then there’s Maya Gabeira, who deserves her own paragraph. In 2020, she rode a wave at Nazaré measuring over 73 feet—the largest wave ever surfed by a woman.

There’s a potential new record for Sebastian: 93.7 feet at Nazaré in 2024—still awaiting official verification.

And of course, you must’ve heard about Alessandro “Alo” Slebir riding a wave on December 23, 2024, at Mavericks that was claimed to be the biggest wave ever surfed—at 108 feet.

But the World Surf League says it was only 76 feet. These guys spoil everything. 😜

In case you ever wondered how imperfect measuring of the waves is, we got the answers for you.

👉 Read the guide to measuring waves

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Pro surfing moms, Olympic sand problems, surf rescues and protected waves

🏄‍♀️ San Clemente’s sand problem ahead of the Olympics
San Clemente is battling major coastal erosion—missing up to millions of cubic feet of sand—as officials rush replenishment efforts ahead of the 2028 Olympic surfing event at nearby Trestles.

🦺 Surf coach saves father and daughter in rip current
A SoCal surf coach jumped into the ocean fully clothed during a competition to rescue a father and daughter caught in a rip current in Oceanside—both made it back safely.

🤰 WSL introduces maternity wildcard for 2027
The WSL will allow one female surfer per season to return to the Championship Tour after pregnancy without requalifying, marking a major shift for women in pro surfing.

🏛️ California considers “surfing reserve” designation
A new bill could officially recognize iconic California surf breaks as “surfing reserves,” aiming to protect them from threats like erosion, pollution, and rising seas.

🌊 Puerto Escondido officially becomes a World Surfing Reserve
After years of grassroots effort, Puerto Escondido’s Zicatela and surrounding breaks were designated a World Surfing Reserve, protecting 10km of coastline and multiple surf spots.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy belated birthday to us! Over the weekend we celebrated our first birthday. We hope you’ve enjoyed getting older with us. 😜

Normally people receive presents on their birthday—but that’s not how we do things here. We want to give you a gift.

Just reply to this email with your wishlist for next year’s newsletter:

• shorter or longer

• more of this / less of that

• new ideas we should try

And we’ll send you some The Wipeout Weekly swag.

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• Why we should bodysurf (but we don’t) 🌊

• Swell height vs surf height explained 🔬

• Spain’s gem of a wave: Mundaka 🇪🇸

• Surfing once a year—and still worth it 💙

• Surf news roundup 🗞️

^SURFODRAMA

😱 Why we all should bodysurf (but we don’t) 🌊

Duke. Flying.

Before surfboards, there was bodysurfing: riding a wave using only your body as a planing surface.

The purest form of wave riding that most surfers—with a few exceptions—gave up.. Shouldn’t we reconsider?

Many traditional Hawaiian watermen consider bodysurfing closer to original wave riding than modern surfing. Even Duke Kahanamoku was a legendary bodysurfer and reportedly preferred it to board surfing.

No board. No equipment. Just the body and the wave. Anyone can try it. Almost as democratic as running—if you happen to live by the coast.

Bodysurfing champion Mike Stewart described it as being “just so complementary to what the wave is doing… the best interaction between man and nature that exists.”

🐬 Where bodysurfing came from
According to the Encyclopedia of Surfing, nothing factual is known about the exact origins of bodysurfing. It’s possible that humans were inspired to emulate wave-riding sea animals such as dolphins and seals.

If board surfing may date back as far as 2000 B.C., there’s no telling when humans first started bodysurfing. It may well be the oldest form of wave riding humans ever practiced.

🏄‍♂️ Why surfers used to bodysurf
You could argue that bodysurfing is the purest form of surfing that almost none of us practice anymore.

Before the surf leash was invented in the early 1970s, all surfers were adept bodysurfers—not by choice, but by necessity. Nearly every wipeout meant losing your board and bodysurfing your way back to shore to retrieve it.

🌊 How bodysurfing helps your surfing
We often say surfing is one of the hardest sports to learn. But bodysurfing may actually be harder than it looks.

People assume it’s easy because there’s no board involved. In reality, bodysurfing requires excellent wave timing and positioning, which means a strong understanding of how waves behave.

It also demands strong swimming ability and good breath control—skills that come in very handy during wipeouts.

All skills that are invaluable in surfing.

🤿 How to bodysurf
Think of your body as a human surfboard rail.

One arm is extended forward like a keel, while the other trails behind. Arch your back slightly and kick for speed. And don’t go straight toward the beach—you need to angle across the wave face.

Experienced bodysurfers can ride waves 30–100 meters this way.

Modern bodysurfers often use handplanes, small boards strapped to the hand that help create lift, increase speed, and steer the wave.

Some surfers argue that this blurs the line between bodysurfing and surfing, because another planing device is being used.

📍 Where to bodysurf
Some waves are actually more famous for bodysurfing than surfing.

The Wedge, California — Huge shorebreak wedges that create powerful bodysurf rides.

Makapuʻu Beach, Hawaiʻi — One of the most famous bodysurf beaches in Hawaiʻi.

Sandy Beach, Hawaiʻi — Known as “Broke Neck Beach” because of its powerful shorebreak.

If you’re thinking bodysurfing is easier than surfing, the beginner experience usually looks more like swallowing half the ocean and getting slammed into sand.

Still, fun. And so worth it.

^{SURF SCIENCE}

🔬 Swell height vs surf height fully explained

As we’ve been staring at a ridiculous number of surf forecasting apps lately for our “It’s a small small wonderful world of surf apps” exploration (see next week’s newsletter), it occurred to us that swell height vs surf height might be one of the most confusing things in surfing.

Forecasts mix these up all the time in how they display numbers, which is why we sometimes show up at the beach expecting overhead waves and instead get flat-as-a-pancake disappointment.

Let’s clear something up right away: swell height and surf height are not the same thing. They aren’t even measured in the same place.

🌊 Swell height (waves out at sea)
Swell height describes the size of waves in the open ocean, before they reach land.

Imagine you’re sitting on a boat far offshore. The waves moving underneath you—that’s the swell. These waves may have traveled thousands of miles across the ocean after being generated by storms somewhere else.

Swell forecasts measure these waves before they interact with the coastline.

🏄 Surf height (the waves we actually ride)
Surf height is the size of waves once they reach the shore and begin breaking.

This is the number surfers actually care about.

When swell moves into shallow water near the coastline, the ocean floor slows the wave down. As the bottom of the wave drags along the seabed, the energy compresses and the wave rises—until it eventually breaks.

That breaking wave is the one you paddle into.

Same ocean. Completely different numbers.

🧠 Why swell height vs surf height numbers don’t match
Science. Lots of it.

The swell you see on a forecast does not automatically translate into the same size wave at your beach. Once swell approaches land, a lot of things start affecting it.

Swell direction matters because some beaches face certain directions better than others. Ocean floor shape—also known as bathymetry—plays a huge role too, with reefs, sandbars, and points reshaping waves. Then there’s swell period, because longer-period swells carry more energy.

Wind conditions change things as well: onshore wind can completely destroy waves. And finally, local geography like headlands or islands can block swell entirely.

What all of this means is that two swells with the same height offshore can produce completely different waves once they reach the beach.

📱Why forecast apps show different numbers
Some forecast sites show swell height offshore. Others estimate surf height at your specific beach.

Both approaches are useful—but they are telling you different things.

Estimating surf height from swell data is complicated because it requires understanding how waves transform as they move into shallow water. Forecasting models have to factor in swell direction, energy, bathymetry, and a lot of physics.

Which is why two surf forecast sites can show completely different numbers for the exact same day.

🤷‍♂️ The real secret of surf forecasts
If you only look at swell height, you might think a spot will be firing when it’s actually tiny.

Or you might skip a session that turns out to be great.

Understanding the difference between swell height and surf height helps. But what’s even more useful is knowing which one your forecasting app is actually showing.

And eventually you may discover the real secret of surfing.

The forecast is wrong about half the time anyway.

^{SURF SPOT SPOTLIGHT}

🇪🇸 Spain’s gem of a wave: Mundaka

Surfer magazine once described Mundaka as “the best restaurant in town—but you never know when it’s going to be open.” Tom Curren called it “the best wave in the world.” And Surfline admires its almost mathematical perfection when it comes to producing incredible waves.

But most of us don’t have to worry about dining at Mundaka. Even though it’s one of the best waves on the planet—and it breaks over sand—it’s best left to advanced intermediates and pros.

Mundaka is a fast and legendary wave located near, of course, Mundaka in the Basque Country of Spain. Europe’s best left-hand river-mouth wave sits at the mouth of the Oka River, opening into the Bay of Biscay. When conditions align, it produces long, hollow barrels that have made it a pilgrimage spot for surfers from around the world.

🧮 Why it’s so perfect
Mundaka is a sandbar river-mouth wave. That means the wave forms because sand carried by the river creates a perfectly shaped underwater bank. Swell wrapping into the estuary hits this sandbar and peels left across it.

When it works, the wave can run up to 200 yards, producing long, fast barrels with multiple sections and deep tube rides. No wonder every surfer worth their salt lose their minds about it. It’s widely considered one of the best barrel waves in Europe.

The best conditions usually arrive between September and December—which is not a very long season for this particular restaurant to be open.

During this period the sandbar is fully formed, water and air temperatures are relatively pleasant, and the winds cooperate. When North Atlantic swells arrive, they bring the goods.

According to the Encyclopedia of Surfing, 6–10 foot surf is optimal. Smaller waves tend to be shorter, while larger swells can “crumble and break before hitting the sandbar.”

⚠️ Why it’s so hard
I’m going to borrow this description from Surfline. I’ve never been to Mundaka myself—I assume someone from their team has.

“The water detonates onto the shallow sand bank in a steep and pitching lunge, and although it is sand-bottomed, from here on it breaks like a reef.”

Those who hit the bottom do so hard.

The outer peak is usually dominated by a tight pack of surfers, but even the scraps further down the line can still offer great barrels.

Expect to compete with up to 100 surfers in the lineup.

Here’s another fun fact: because of dredging upstream, the break stopped working for nearly three years before the sandbar rebuilt itself and the wave came back online in 2006.

📜 How Mundaka was discovered
According to The Encyclopedia of Surfing, no one knows exactly when Mundaka was first surfed, but it was likely sometime in the 1960s.

Once Surfer Magazine published a photograph and article about the wave in 1973, the secret was out. Mundaka quickly became a bucket-list destination—the kind of place surfers travel to for bragging rights.

Maybe… one day… to look at.

^{GIRL WHO STARTED SURFING AT 62}

🏄🏻‍♀️ Surfing once a year—and still worth it 💙

Kim from Toronto first tried surfing a few years ago on Lake Ontario—with not much success.

Some people might have given up: already an adult learner, not-so-great local conditions. But not Kim.

Now at 66, she’s still progressing, still loving it, and hoping to surf again in her own neck of the woods.

👉 Read the full story

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Shark attacks. Sardine science. Surfing dogs. Fresh shark stats.

🦈 “It’s a miracle”: surfer survives suspected great white attack
A surfer in Western Australia escaped with his life after a suspected 10-foot great white shark struck his foil board, before he rode nearly 9 kilometers back to shore without falling.

🐟 Can eating 1,000 sardines make you a better surfer?
A Harvard-trained researcher ate about 1,000 sardines in 30 days to test the effects of extreme Omega-3 intake, reporting increased cold tolerance but also a persistent sardine smell.

🐕 Dogs will surf again in Florida this April
The 14th Annual East Coast Dog Surfing Festival returns to Cocoa Beach on April 5, where dogs will compete in surfing heats, costume contests and the crowd-favorite Doggy Bikini Contest.

📊 Global shark deaths jump 125% in 2025
A new international report recorded 65 unprovoked shark bites worldwide last year, including nine fatalities, with the United States reporting the highest number of incidents and Australia seeing a notable increase.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy St. Patrick’s Day! (for next week) That’s why we’re traveling to Ireland to check out some Irish waves.

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• Anyone surfing for years and still bad? 😭

• Surfing in Ireland (because St. Patrick’s Day) ☘️

• Real ice cream headache in the lineup 🍦

• I only like surfing with a coach—is that weird? 😜

• Also, some surf news 🗞️

^SURFODRAMA

😱 Anyone else been surfing for years and still bad? 😭

Florence Foster Jenkins: can’t sing, will sing anyway.

You may remember what a terrible disservice Malcolm Gladwell did to all of us when he decided that mastering any skill requires 10,000 hours of practice.

Anyone else surfing for years and still bad? Oh yes. Newsflash: most surfers never get good.

“80% of surfers suck. Including me—and I’ve surfed for 30 years,” said one surfer on Reddit.

🌊 Surfing is incredibly hard to practice consistently
So how come in every other sport you can get good with practice, but in surfing—not so much?

Well, it’s because surfing is extremely hard to practice. You simply don’t get many repetitions. You’re battling crowded lineups, short rides, inconsistent waves during the session, and unpredictable conditions in general.

There’s no denying that crowded breaks limit learning. As one surfer confessed:

“In LA, I was lucky to get three waves over 10 seconds per session.”

Progress requires wave count. And crowds reduce it drastically.

Imagine trying to learn guitar but only playing a few minutes every couple of weeks.

Surfing is a low-repetition sport, which slows improvement dramatically.

✈️ Why surf trips accelerate learning
This is one of the most important structural truths about surfing. It’s also why surf trips dramatically accelerate learning.

Some surfers say they improved more in one surf trip than in years at home.

“I improved in 10 days as much as I did in the prior 20 years.”

It’s the opposite of what you experience at your local break. On a surf trip, you travel somewhere with consistent waves, long rides, and the ability to consciously practice—rather than worrying you’ll be late to work after your dawnie because you’re stuck in traffic.

This is why so many people recommend point break surf trips. The best waves for progression ever.

⏰ Adulthood vs surfing
Another uncomfortable truth: most adults simply don’t surf enough. Normal life kills progression. Honestly, I don’t know how anyone learns with a normal job that requires a commute. Or a family. Or living far from the beach. Or being landlocked.

There’s a good reason why most pro surfers come from Hawaiʻi, Florida, and California—and their job is being pro. We’re talking about surfing two or three times a day, for years. That creates a massive skill gap.

One of our Girls Who Can’t Surf Good members in Australia surfed a few times with Stephanie Gilmore—you know, the eight-time world champion. Stephanie told her:

“Jen, if you’re popping up to your knee, that’s fine. Unless you’re planning to compete on the world tour, you don’t need a perfect pop-up.”

Gotta trust the pro.

😵 Intermediate purgatory
Surfing plateaus are also very common. Many surfers describe being stuck in what they call “intermediate purgatory.” This is where most surfers live forever.

What that means in practice is that you can paddle out, catch waves, and ride down the line. But generating speed, carving turns, or reading sections well—that’s another story.

Nobody wants to hear about three other reasons we never get good: fitness and flexibility, aging, and natural talent.

Surfing requires a strange mix of athletic skills—paddling endurance, an explosive pop-up, balance, and Jason Bourne–level spatial awareness. Many adults simply lack some of these.

And then there’s talent. Something surf culture rarely says out loud: some people just “get it” better than others.

Coaching and video analysis can help. But no amount of coaching can fully compensate for natural talent.

🌞 The comfortable conclusion
With this mighty wind of “you will never get good” blowing against us, we arrive at a rather comfortable conclusion: it doesn’t matter.

Just enjoy it.

Surfing has always had an honesty problem. Media portrays surfers as stylish, fast, and performing acrobatic maneuvers. But the truth looks far less picture-perfect. Most surfers plateau early.

Still, living in intermediate purgatory beats the hell out of never having surfed at all.

^{SURF SPOT SPOTLIGHT}

☘️ Surfing in Ireland (because St. Patrick’s Day)

St. Patrick’s Day is approaching! Let’s talk about surfing in Ireland, and specifically the monster that is Mullaghmore Head. The Irish equivalent of California's Mavericks.

🌊 Meet the Irish beast
Mullaghmore Head is actually known as "The Irish Beast". It’s Ireland’s most famous wave, the equivalent of Mavericks or cold water Jaws (the water temperature is 8–12°C / 46–54°F). It is also one of the most challenging big waves in the world.

The break can be found between Grange and Cliffoney, 400 meters northwest of the village of Mullaghmore in County Sligo. Sligo—that’s in the north of Ireland.

👻 Why it’s so terrifying
Mullaghmore is known as one of the most challenging big waves in the world. It breaks only during huge winter swells and can reach 40–60 ft+ faces.

If the size wasn’t enough, it breaks over a shallow reef right beside a harbor wall, and it’s super thick. What that means is that the wave jacks up almost instantly off a ledge, folds forward, and lands with the kind of force that not wearing a flotation vest is pretty much suicidal.

It can actually be paddled, and that’s one of the reasons why it became famous, but these days tow-in is still common on the biggest days.

No wonder it is surfed solely by the best of the best—the very elite of big wave surfers.

🇮🇪 Ireland’s big wave awakening
Mullaghmore hasn’t been on the surf map for that long. It was only in the mid-2000s when Ireland, quoting the Encyclopedia of Surfing, “gained a measure of big wave notoriety, as videos of huge, grey waves ridden at spots like Aileen's and Mullaghmore began pouring out of surf media outlets.”

Aileen’s, which is near the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare, is a subject for another episode—it gets as big as Mullaghmore.

It’s not surprising that Ireland is home to not one but two gigantic waves. We’ve got 1,700 miles of coastline with surf on the north, west, and south coasts, most of it generated from North Atlantic storms.

From August to May, the country's best surf is found on the north shore, particularly along the 26-mile "Causeway Coast". But it’s not just about the north. Stormrider Guide Europe describes the west counties, including Donegal, as "a surfer's paradise."

So when are we going to visit?

^{WORD OF THE WEEK}

🍦 Real ice cream headache in the lineup

If you’ve never surfed in cold water, the only time you’ve experienced a brain freeze was probably when eating ice cream (see: ice cream headache) or a blended icy drink, even very cold iced water. It’s this sudden, thankfully brief, yet excruciating pain that you experience behind the eyes, nose, and forehead.

Science isn’t entirely sure what causes this pain, but researchers suspect it’s a combination of direct stimulation of temperature-sensitive nerves plus the cold’s effects on blood vessels running along the roof of the mouth, according to the Johns Hopkins Institute.

When brain freeze is caused by consuming cold stuff, it’s just an annoying quirk that lasts a few seconds. But when it happens while you’re surfing, oh man that sucks.

You duck dive into winter ocean water and suddenly your forehead feels like it’s splitting open. Your eyes water. You might even feel dizzy. This is not good.

It’s not only duck diving in cold water that can trigger it. Wind chill hitting a wet head or repeated duck dives in winter surf can bring it on too. As if cold-water surfing isn’t hard enough already.

🧠 When brain freeze hits in the water
The good news is that brain freeze usually lasts less than five minutes. I don’t know how this is good news when during that time you can experience dizziness or momentary disorientation—which is not ideal when there’s a set bearing down on you.

My heart goes out to all you migraine sufferers. Brain freeze is more common in people who suffer from migraines, because their blood vessels tend to be more reactive to sudden temperature changes.

They also tell us that cold water exposure is good for you. All this cold exposure can trigger a surge of nerve impulses to the brain, which some researchers believe contributes to the mood-boosting effect many surfers report after cold-water sessions.

It’s a trade-off, I guess.

💊 How surfers mitigate brain freeze
There’s no guaranteed way to eliminate brain freeze, but surfers have figured out ways to reduce the shock.

You can try “colding” your face and hair gradually before paddling out. Splash some cold water on your face or rub your forehead and hair with wet hands. But seriously, who’s going to remember to do this?

Wearing a hood is the most effective solution. A neoprene hood prevents cold water from directly hitting the scalp and forehead—the main trigger zones. Many surfers prefer wetsuits with built-in hoods, which reduce flushing during duck dives. You can also try a neoprene headband.

Then there’s the tongue trick, which is popular for ice cream headaches. Press your tongue firmly against the roof of your mouth. This helps warm the palate and can shorten the headache. Some surfers even try this move when duck diving.

Brain freeze is a normal physiological response to cold exposure. For surfers, it’s just part of the cold-water experience. We grin and bear it.

The best mitigation strategies are simple: wear a hood and warm up gradually.

Anyway, that ice cream headache will probably only last under five minutes.

^{HEY ZUZ, I’M CONFUSED}

😜 I only like surfing with a coach—is that weird?

Let’s talk about a tiny little secret some of us hide: we don’t like surfing alone, and some of us don’t like surfing without a coach.

It happens.

But just because it’s not how most of us imagine surfing doesn’t mean it’s wrong.

👉 Read the full story

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Surfer drifts off Bali. Munich surfers fight back. No Eddie this year. Dakar girls surf.

🌊 Surfer drifts at sea for 20 hours in Bali
A 64-year-old Russian tourist was rescued after drifting overnight on his surfboard near Nusa Dua when strong currents carried him away from shore, before a fisherman spotted him nearly 20 hours later.

🏙️ Munich surfers fight to bring back their river wave
Local surfers in Munich are trying to recreate the famous Eisbach standing wave after dredging removed the sandbar and the city banned the ramp that had produced one of Europe’s most unusual surf spots for decades.

🌊 The Eddie won’t run this year
The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational will not take place this season after Waimea Bay failed to produce the required 40-foot waves during the contest’s 90-day waiting period.

🏄‍♀️ Surf school in Senegal keeps girls in education
A surf academy in Dakar run with the Black Girls Surf initiative is combining surfing, fitness training and classroom lessons to help girls stay in school and open new opportunities through the sport.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy Thursday & Friday! Busy, busy, busy edition this week. But the most important story is about smearing sunscreen all over so we all collectively look like Pennywise from It.

You’re probably thinking: I already know everything there is to know about sun protection.

That’s what we thought too. 😜

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• Sun protection is no joke 🤡

• The pig that made Malibu famous 🐷

• I came back to surfing, it saved my life 🏄🏻‍♀️

• A wee bit of ugly surfing 🙈

• Inspirational surf news roundup 🗞️

• The Wipeout Weekly FOMO 👀

^SURFODRAMA

😱 Sun protection is no joke 🤡

Uncomfortable truth. Surfers accumulate UV like it’s a loyalty program. We romanticize sun damage in surfing. “Salted.” “Leathered.” But melanoma does not care about aesthetic. There’s no shame in looking like Pennywise, truly!

⚠️ Why smear
The big C. Skin cancer. Australia has one of the highest melanoma rates in the world. The U.S. is not exactly relaxed about it either. About 1 in 5 Americans will develop skin cancer by age 70. sun protection in the surf is no joke. Hours in the water, reflective surfaces, peak UV exposure—we should at least be realistic about the risk.

Skin aging is not pretty either. UV breaks down collagen. Translation: wrinkles, sagging, texture changes, hyperpigmentation. “Weathered” sounds romantic until you realize it’s mostly sun damage.

This one we weren’t even aware of: immune suppression. UV exposure can dampen local skin immunity, which means your skin becomes less efficient at repairing itself. What?! This is bad.

And then there’s the reflection factor. Water reflects up to 30% of UV radiation. Sea foam? Bonus exposure. You are not just getting sun from above. You are getting it from below, sideways, and everywhere in between.

⏱️ When to smear
Even if it’s cloudy. UV penetrates clouds. Especially when it’s windy. Even if it’s “just a quick paddle.”

Sunscreen should go on 15–20 minutes before you paddle out. Most of us apply at the beach while we’re already suited up, but that may be a bit late.

Once and done? Not quite so. Reapply every time you get out and go back in. Reapply after towel-drying your face. Reapply after long sessions if you’re hanging out in the parking lot. “Waterproof” typically means up to 80 minutes under lab conditions—not three hours of duck diving, face rubbing, and salt friction.

👂 Where to smear
Everywhere. All exposed skin. It must be the only time when wearing a wetsuit, booties, gloves, and a hood is a blessing.

Face. Especially cheekbones and the bridge of your nose. They protrude and catch more sun. And under the eyes. That skin is thin and takes a real beating.

Ears. Top and back. Neck. Front and back. Hands. Backs and fingers. Hair part line. Feet if you’re barefoot between sessions. Lest we forget: under your chin. Water glare hits upward.

And if you’re lucky enough to surf the tropics in a bikini, then all over. Plus a little bit more in the spots where it may ride up and expose unprotected skin.

If it sees the sun, smear it. That means your lips too!

🧴 What to smear
This is a question on everyone's mind. The answer depends on your complexion, propensity to burn, where you surf, and what part of your body you’re trying to cover.

At minimum, use broad spectrum SPF 30, but SPF 50+ is preferred in high UV zones. Layering works too. Base sunscreen with mineral (zinc oxide) on top works wonders.

Mineral formulas tend to stay put better in the surf. Tinted zinc helps with white cast and provides additional visible light protection. Creams are better for using on your body. Sticks are useful for reapplication and face protection. Thick zinc on the nose and cheekbones when it’s nuclear out there.

From the community recommendations alone, surfers consistently lean toward zinc-heavy formulas that stay on in the water. The theme is clear: staying power matters.

But it doesn’t end there. Oh no. We all know that we should use reef-safe sunscreens, and most of those targeted at surfers already are. If reef impact matters to you, look for non-nano zinc and avoid certain chemical UV filters.

Zinc percentage also counts. Higher zinc generally equals stronger physical blocking. So does the water resistance rating.

Or whether it stains everything you own. Or if it stings your eyes. You will not know until you try it in most cases.

🛡️ There’s more than smearing to sun protection
The name of the game is cover yourself up. Choose from a selection of wide-brim surf hats. Some surfers wear trucker hats secured at the back. There’s rashies, surf tights, gloves for long sessions.

And continue to smear accordingly.

If you start late and some damage is already done, it can still be improved, but it will be costly, because it involves treatments such as IPL, Fraxel, or fractional lasers.

For now, we have a top 9 list of community-recommended sun protection products here.

^{SURFBOARD SAFARI}

🐷 The pig that made Malibu famous

No, not this pig. This is Ebara.

The very first time I heard about “Velzy’s Pig,” I had this image of a Malibu surfer walking a little fat pig on a leash. But that was not the pig that made Malibu famous.

Because a Pig is actually just a surfboard. Okay, not just a surfboard. One of the most important longboard designs ever made. It was created by Dale Velzy in the late 1950s.

🩳 The Malibu crew
Dale Velzy was one of four surfers who built the legend of Malibu—the other three being Dewey Weber, Terry Tracy, and Miki Dora. None of them were Malibu residents, but all of them became First Point regulars.

Dale started surfing when he was ten. The Encyclopedia of Surfing describes him as “wiry and athletic, graceful at times, but more interested in pushing limits: he was likely the first surfer to hang ten, and unquestionably the first to decorate a surfboard with a pair of resined-on black lace panties.” He later became “a grinning, tattooed former Merchant Marine and part-time pool shark from Hermosa Beach who loved hot rods and horses nearly as much as he loved to ride waves.” Everyone wanted to be friends with him.

🐽 Shaping of the pig
Woodworking was Dale’s family tradition, and by the time he was 22 he owned surfing’s first licensed boardmaking shop, producing as many as ten boards a week and selling them for $55 each. In 1954, Dale closed his Malibu shop and opened one in Venice. Tired of shaping Quigg-style boards—a sleeker type of longboard—he shaped something different. He shaped a Pig.

It was a longboard with a narrow nose, a continuous rail curve, the wide point shifted back toward the tail, and a round tail. The Pig was described as “funny looking, kinda homely with a bulbous rear end.” A real pig. It was usually 9’6”–10’+ and could weigh just over 20 pounds in its lighter versions.

🐖 The Pig changed surfing
Because of its reduced nose area, it cut through the water with fewer catches and turned faster than earlier longboards. The Pig had a wide tail, so to keep it stable on the wave face it used a large, raked fin—big and powerful, sometimes extending slightly past the tail. This setup helped the board hold steady in the pocket, the steep, powerful part of the wave just beneath the curl.

Before the Pig, speed was mostly understood as a matter of planing across the surface. The Pig showed that speed also came from control—how well a board could maneuver high in the pocket, where the wave is steep and constantly changing. Ride up there, angle back down, shift forward—and it felt like being launched.

Basically, the Pig changed how surfers moved on longboards. Instead of just trimming straight down the line, you could step back, sink the tail, and pivot hard. As cumbersome as the Pig may sound, it proved that board design can radically influence style.

^{GIRL WHO GOT SAVED BY SURFING}

🏄🏻‍♀️ I came back to surfing at 47—and it saved my life

If I had a penny for every time someone says, “surfing changed my life,” I’d have many pennies. But how often do you hear someone say, “surfing saved me”?

That’s what happened in Corina’s case. Surfing really did save her life when she returned to it at 47.

Depression, osteoarthritis, the Bay Area commute to the surf—and yet she persevered. 🥰

👉 Read the full story

^{SURFING THRU HISTORY}

🙈 A wee bit of ugly surfing

The actual headline for this story is: Nazis, I hate these guys. You know, from Indiana Jones.

But I didn’t want to scare you off. It’s a surprisingly complicated topic to write (and learn) about—Nazi symbolism in surfing. You’re never quite sure how to strike the balance between something that’s objectively awful and the occasional stupidity of surfing youth.

I’m glad I tried though. This is a story for those who appreciate the range in our stories. 😜

👉 Read the full story. Thankfully, it’s pretty short.

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Surf redemption, recovery, and 3,500-year-old wave tradition

🏄‍♂️ Hawaiʻi man tackles gambling addiction by offering free surf lessons
After losing nearly everything to sports gambling, a Honolulu man now offers free surf lessons to strangers at Waikīkī through his First Wave Project.

🩺 Paralyzed surfer now walking five months after Oceanside accident
Orange County surfer Scott Muir is walking and driving again just five months after a devastating surfing accident that left him paralyzed from the neck down.

🛶 Can surf tourism help save Peru’s 3,500-year-old reed boat tradition?
In Huanchaco, Peru, surfers and tourism may help sustain the ancient caballitos de totora reed boats as local fishers struggle with declining catches and environmental pressures.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY FOMO}

👀 A few things you might’ve missed…

All the top, community-recommended sunscreens can be found in The Wee Surf Shoppe.

All Things Surf Directory launched last week. It now features more than 20 upcoming surf retreats and local meetups.

The latest Hey Zuz, I’m Confused tackles surf-related rashes.

You will find over 45 surf spots in our Surf Spot Spotlight.

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy Anniversary! Did you know it’s been a year since we sent out “a sneak peek at The Wipeout Weekly”? Whaaaat. A year?!

No better way to celebrate than to just keep going. We give you: the All Things Surf Directory. It’s live! It’s getting bigger every week! It’s #1 on Google! 😂 And how we use it—well, that’s completely up to us.

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• Surfline sucks—now what? 🤨

• You can’t afford a “Hawaiian Surfboard”

• All Things Surf Directory won't change the way you surf, but… 😜

• Stumbling into surfing at 39 🏄🏻‍♀️

• Don't listen to this if you rent a wetsuit 🤢

• “No sharks” surf news roundup 🗞️

^SURFODRAMA

😱 Surfline forecasts suck—now what? 🤨

Surfline sucks. Surf-lies. Bring back Magicseaweed! How much?!

We surfers feel very strongly about this number one surf forecasting app. Yet, it perseveres.

But is it, perhaps, just about time for Surfline to be over?

Not yet. Even though, apparently, it got worse.

Surfline has been around since the 1990s. If you surf, you most likely use it. It gives you swell and surf height, the time interval between waves, tide, wind, wave energy, and more.

I have been a Premium user for years, and I forgot how simplified and unhelpful the free option actually is—for beginners, or for tracking the forecast during a specific day. The interface is designed to infuriate you into upgrading.

The upgrade would still be worth a pretty penny if only, you guessed it, Surfline got it right.

📉 The accuracy problem
Throughout the years, surfers have complained about the app and the inaccuracy of its forecasts.

For some, Surfline overestimates wave height. For others—it undercalls it.

They lament the loss of human observers and checkers. They complain about Surfline getting fundamental data wrong, even buoy data such as water temperature.

We get it. Surf forecasting is hard. The ocean is a layered, chaotic system driven by wind thousands of miles away, underwater bathymetry that shifts over time, tides, sandbars, local wind quirks, and micro-geography. But, but, but…

🎯 The illusion of precision
Most surfers don’t read swell charts first. We look at one thing and one thing only: wave height and conditions.

Surfline assigns a size and a rating to breaks around the world, packaging complexity into digestible, pretty numbers and colors. It feels precise. It feels personalized. It feels right.

But increasingly, it’s not.

🤖 LOTUS, AI, and averaging the ocean
Since Surfline integrated its AI-driven LOTUS model, forecasts at many breaks have become wildly inconsistent.

Traditional forecasting blends physics-based models (how swells move through space) with local observation and interpretation. AI-heavy models, if over-reliant on historical pattern recognition, can average out reality instead of capturing what’s happening right now.

Alexander R. Stine, a professor of earth and planetary science at San Francisco State University, criticized the shift toward purely AI models:

“You are throwing away everything we know about physics when you do that,” he said. “There’s quite a bit of data cooked into the fact that we know the equations of motion… You’d probably do better with just actually doing the calculation.”

And the ocean doesn’t like being averaged.

🗺️ Local still matters
Another recurring complaint: Surfline presents regional data as if it’s hyper-local. Two spots separated by a headland can behave completely differently under the same swell and wind conditions. A sheltered cove may be clean. A nearby exposed beach may be blown out.

Local knowledge still matters. But, as we all know, humans cost more than robots.

🔍 Where’s the transparency?
Adding insult to injury, there’s little transparency. Forecast wrong? There’s no historical comparison tool showing what was predicted versus what actually happened.

If you’re lucky enough to live close to the beach, you can check before you surf. Or there’s a cam pointed at your local spot and you’re a paid user—happy days.

But if you have to travel hours to a surf spot or you’re planning a trip in advance, you may get discouraged by the sleek interface, AI-powered cams, color updates, and increasing reliance on automation.

It starts to feel less like a surf forecasting service and more like a tech company optimizing for scale and efficiency. And it’s hard not to notice.

🧨 But what can we do?
Surfline took out its main competitors—Magicseaweed in the UK and Coastalwatch in Australia—a few years ago.

But new surf forecasting apps have started popping up. If they can learn from Surfline’s mistakes, we may finally get some genuine alternatives.

Here’s what surfers are using instead today:
Surf Captain (81 reviews on the App Store)
Windy (75k reviews on the App Store)
Surf-forecast.com (760 reviews on the App Store)

And there are new global apps being built:
Swellify from New Zealand—focus: beginner-friendly
Swell Scope from Australia—focus: surf journal

Are these apps better than Surfline? Probably. Possibly not. But we know that a little competition can work wonders.

Good luck to us all!

^{SURF THRU HISTORY}

🤑 You can’t afford a “Hawaiian Surfboard”

As I’ve been ordering some second-hand surfing books, I came across a listing so ridiculously expensive that I felt we needed to talk about it. Namely: Hawaiian Surfboard.

The listing I spotted was for a $15,000 first-print edition of Hawaiian Surfboard by Tom Blake.

It is signed by Tom Blake and inscribed in the year of publication: “with sincere appreciation of a master craftsman, from Tom Blake 1935.”

You may be forgiven for thinking the price is driven by the book’s total one-in-existence uniqueness—but there’s another first-edition listing at $12,500. It’s also signed by Tom Blake. It’s like he couldn’t stop himself from signing these books.

💰 Why is it so expensive?
Okay—but why so much money? What’s with this book?

Two things. First—the author. Tom Blake is widely considered one of the most influential surfers in the history of the sport. He invented the surfboard fin, the hollow surfboard, and a water-resistant camera housing for surf photography—and he was the first person to surf Malibu.

Second—the book itself. It’s considered “the most important publication in the surfing canon,” according to Timothy DeLaVega, and described by The Surfer’s Journal as a “seminal volume of surf literature [and] the sport’s single most important document.”

🦄 What makes the book special
The book is ninety-five pages long and was written by Blake in 1935. Only 500 copies were printed at the time.

Before Hawaiian Surfboard, there were surf articles and essays—but not a proper standalone book. According to the Encyclopedia of Surfing, it’s “part surf history and part instruction manual.”

Hawaiian Surfboard was illustrated with nearly 50 black-and-white photos, most taken by Blake, and Duke Kahanamoku wrote the introduction. The book is divided into four sections: “Ancient Hawaiian Legends of Surfriding,” “Early Hawaiian Historical Period, Surfriding,” “Modern Surfriding,” and “How to Use the New Hollow Surfboard.”

According to the Encyclopedia of Surfing, “Blake’s prose is dry, often clumsy, and occasionally pedantic, but he does convey the power and beauty of surfing in Hawaii.”

It sounds like this:

“The water is so warm one is not conscious of it. The view of the palm trees on shore, the [Waikik’i] hotels, the mountains and clouds is marvelous and to me it is part of the pleasure of surfing. The hour before sunset is best of all, for then the mountains take on all the shades of green imaginable, while the clouds near them assume all shades of white and gray. Rainbows are often seen in the far-off valleys.”

In 1983, the book was reissued as Hawaiian Surfriders 1935. You can buy used copies on Amazon for under $800.

^{WILLY WONKA’S FACTORY OF SURF STUFFS}

🍫 All Things Surf Directory won’t change the way you surf, but…

The golden tickets for everybody!

When we set the rule of no promos ever of any kind whatsoever as one of the guiding principles for Girls Who Can’t Surf Good on Facebook—which now stands at close to 86,000 members—we just wanted to keep the group noise-free.

But community recommendations, well, they are everything.

That’s the very reason we built the All Things Surf Directory.

It’s a curated, location-based hub for surf stuffs and community listings worldwide. And we’re officially announcing it today. Finally. Enough pussyfooting.

No more missing a recommendation because you missed a post.

Never again will you need to ask a question that was already asked 400 times.

No longer do you need to join the group to benefit from its shared knowledge.

🚀 Surf’s the limit
Adding a listing is free. Using the directory is free. That part is simple. We’ve split the directory into three big wave categories.

Surf Listings are for any surf or surf-adjacent business—coaches, shops, photographers, rentals, shapers, wellness providers, surf non-profits, jobs, volunteer opportunities, and community listings in Classifieds.

The Classifieds category is for all your second-hand boards and wetsuit sales, swaps or giveaways, surf trip or ride sharing, last-minute borrow requests when traveling, lost & found…

Surf Retreats & Events are for events and experiences that take place on specific dates. Surf film festivals. Beach cleanups. Local beginner meetups.

Surf-Side Lodging is for businesses or individuals offering accommodation near surf spots.

💡 Need some examples?
Struggling with your pop-up? There's an online workshop for that.

If you live in New York and have kids who want to learn to surf, it’s free.

Learning to surf and need surf buddies? There’s a meetup group for beginner and intermediate surfers in North Wales, UK.

Or you can meet up with fellow surfer girls on Redondo Beach, California in a couple of weeks.

Worried about your head? Here’s a discount code: CANTSURF15 for your surf helmet.

Looking for a surf retreat? There are upcoming ones in Sri Lanka, El Salvador, Nicaragua, South Africa, Portugal, Spain, Canary Islands, Lombok, Siargao, Australia….

The possibilities are… you know… endless. And we’re only starting out.

^{GIRL WHO TURNED HER LIFE UPSIDE DOWN FOR SURF}

🏄🏻‍♀️ When stumbling into surfing at 39 changes everything

We all know that surfing makes people do crazy things.

Learning to surf later in life can make people do absolutely insane stuff like chucking your job, moving to another country, and starting from scratch…

If you needed some inspiration or perhaps reassurance that all will be well, we recommend Suzanne's story.

👉 Read the full story

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY PODCAST}

🎙️ Don’t listen to this if you rent a wetsuit 🤢

We haven’t done many—read: any—pod interviews where we almost literally peed ourselves with laughter. Until we spoke to Lou Harris of the Black Surfing Association (East Coast), that is.

We chatted about surfing in Rockaway, New York lineup vibes, what makes it easier for kids (and adults) to learn to surf, and why you should think very, very hard about using a rental wetsuit.

🎧 Listen to The Wipeout Weekly on your fav pod platform or right here.

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Surfing dachshund. Angry pros. Surfers rescued.

🐶 Surfing dachshund rides wave in viral TikTok
A dachshund in Australia has gone viral after a TikTok video showed the small dog calmly balancing on a surfboard, with the clip—reportedly practiced first in the owner’s pool—reaching 11 million views and counting.

🏅 Olympic surf qualification changes criticized by tour surfers
World champion Yago Dora and other elite surfers have criticized the ISA’s revised qualification system for LA28, which reduces Championship Tour spots from 20 to 10 and limits tour qualifiers to one man and one woman per country.

🚁 Two surfers rescued after rip current in Oregon
Two surfers were rescued at Cape Kiwanda Beach after being caught in a rip current, with firefighters using a rappel system to reach one stranded near a cliff as both declined medical treatment.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy Thurs-o-Friday! Someone asked on Threads—how long do you wait after rain before getting back in the water? We said: 72 hours. They said: But there are people out there. We said: There are always people out there. 😜

It’s worth the wait. Run-off can make you sick, and after heavy rain sharks move closer to shore (Australia).

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• Can surfing be unhealthy? 🤒

• Skeleton Bay and the art of not going there ☠️

• The day longboarding died 🪦

• The Rockaways made me a surfer at 47 🏄🏻‍♀️

• My surf coach shouted at me 🫣

• Very short surf news roundup 🗞️

^SURFODRAMA

😱 Can surfing be unhealthy? 🤒

When I asked if surfing can be unhealthy, some surfers assumed that I was talking about physical health. And rightly so.

I fashion many-a-scar brought on by surfing. I have scarred knees from getting stuck while popping up, scars on my shins from walking into the fins (when stored stationary), and a coral scar from landing on a reef. I’m very proud of the latter one.

I have also scraped my boobs raw when surfing in a bikini and suffered not-quite-concussions from getting hit by my board.

This stuff happens to everyone. Not even like a surf tax, it’s already included in the price.

🤪 Can surfing be unhealthy—mentally?
What I was actually asking was, in my mind: can surfing become very unhealthy mentally? I know it could.

When I spoke to Matt Warshaw, the dude who used to be a pro surfer and wrote The History of Surfing and The Encyclopedia of Surfing, he said that surfing became “negatively consuming” for him. He got to the point where he was no longer enjoying surfing.

So, how do you stop surfing from becoming a compulsion? How do you keep the enjoyment and other “bad” stuff at bay?

🖕Signs your relationship with surfing might be tilting
The first, important step is to recognize where we stand. Does any of this ring true?

You suffer from surveillance anxiety. Checking Surfline constantly. Comparing yourself to your surf buddies: who’s out, how big are the waves, who’s braver, who’s more committed.

Your identity is under threat. How can I even call myself a surfer if I am not out now? I’m not out in all the conditions. If others surf and I don’t, I have clearly failed.

You experience a scarcity mindset. Good waves feel rare. Missing one feels like wasting life. Why am I not out there?!

Maybe you’ve become a little bit too invested in measuring your progress and obsessively seek to retain your “I went out 5 days this week” streak.

Or you deprioritize other life experiences because going on vacation to surf is the only reasonable decision. How are you going to progress otherwise?

Better still, you miss your anniversary dinner because you’re squeezing the last of the hurricane swell.

Sounds familiar?

🙈 Obsession isn’t automatically bad
Before we proceed, I want to make one thing very clear. I’m the last person on earth to tell you how to live your life.

I don’t actually believe being obsessed with surfing is a bad thing at all, as long as you are fully aware of the consequences and you accept them.

It’s totally okay to make life decisions around surfing.

You can make career decisions dictated by swell, you can travel only for waves, you can allow your life to narrow to a single focus that is surfing. You can solve anxiety by surrendering to identity, not detaching from it. And that is absolutely fine. Happy days!

🦕 The evolution of a surfer
Most surfers seem to be going through an evolution of their relationship with surfing, a certain timeline.

First, there’s a discovery phase, this pure joy of surfing and the “I have never done this before” revelation.

Second, we become a teeny tiny bit obsessed. Our lives get reorganized around surfing. Our free time is now surf-dependent.

Then, as we start comparing ourselves to other surfers, that’s where anxiety kicks in.

Thankfully, this is followed by acceptance—whether this means that you dedicate your life to surfing or you find a way for it to remain a delightful pastime.

😌 Reaching surfing nirvana
All of this means that it’s actually pretty simple to make sure that surfing doesn’t become very unhealthy for you.

It can play a big role in your life. The biggest, if you choose to. As with other things in surfing, it’s not deciding what role it will play that makes it mentally exhausting. Once you decide either way, you’re finally at ease. You’ve reached surfing nirvana.

^{WAVE OF THE WEEK}

☠️ Skeleton Bay and the art of not going there

Have you ever heard of Skeleton Bay? We had not either. Until now, of course. Let’s talk about one of the most famous left-hand breaks in the world.

🌍 Where on earth is Skeleton Bay
Skeleton Bay sits inside the Skeleton Coast National Park in Namibia, along Africa’s southwest edge. The name derives from the whale and seal bones that once littered the shore, as well as the skeletal remains of shipwrecks—victims of dense fog, strong currents, and a brutal coastline.

Skeleton Bay is a pain in the ass. It’s remote, you have to stay about 45 minutes’ drive from the waves, and you could spend a couple of weeks waiting for the wave—and it may still not happen. This must be horrifically frustrating because the potential of Skeleton Bay is immense. We’re talking mile-long rides and 30-second barrels.

🌊 When it works—and why it barely does
The wave is a fickle mistress. It only works in the winter months for the Southern Hemisphere (May–September) and needs a very long-period groundswell to start working. And then it works for a day or two and it’s all over.

The water is cold, and wetsuits are required year-round. If you think sharks would be your main concern, think again: extreme hold-downs and remoteness are going to be your biggest enemy.

South African pro surfer Simon Nicholson called Skeleton Bay “a wave reserved only for the brave, and even then it’s a waste of time without the skills to back it up.”

🛰️ How the internet “discovered” Skeleton Bay
Local knowledge existed for years, but Skeleton Bay was “discovered” as part of Surfing magazine’s 2007 Google Earth Challenge—a contest that asked readers to submit satellite images of potential undiscovered surf breaks.

In July 2008, the contest winner Brian Gable, a software developer from Irvine, California—because of course—flew to Africa with pro surfers Cory Lopez, Peter Mendia, Hank Gaskell, and Mitch Coleborn. Once the footage dropped, the internet basically lost its mind.

Since then, access has been intentionally limited to prevent overuse and protect the environment—you need a permit. It helps that there’s no infrastructure at the wave itself, so be ready for a long drive.

Actually, don’t—because a) the trip would cost you a few thousand dollars, and b) if you’re reading The Wipeout Weekly, you are absolutely not ready. And that’s ok!

^{SURF THRU HISTORY}

🪦 The day longboarding died

We’ve been trying to write about the shortboarding revolution for a while now—and honestly, we struggled.

Because this isn’t just a story about smaller boards.

It’s a story about bigger-than-life personalities, geopolitical conflict, rushed surfboard design, threatened business interests, and… wait for it… the decline of surfing.

It took Matt Warshaw countless pages in History of Surfing. And it’s a coffee-table book—these are ginormous pages. How can we distill this into a cohesive story and do it justice?

We think we did it.

It’s still slightly too long for the newsletter (“revolution won’t be brief”), but where else are you going to read about major surfboard manufacturers leaning on Surfer magazine to suppress in-depth reporting on shortboards?

Yes. That happened.

👉 Read the full story

^{GIRL WHO ROCKED THE ROCKAWAYS}

🏄🏻‍♀️ The Rockaways made me surfer at 47

How often do you hear about someone getting into surfing because of their kid? Rarely, if ever. It’s usually the other way around.

Meet Suzanne from Brooklyn, New York, who learned to surf at Rockaway Beach—of all places.

She followed in her son’s footsteps, with a little help from the Black Surfing Association. And it’s turned into a completely different kind of surf journey

👉 Read the full story

^{HEY ZUZ, I’M CONFUSED}

🫣 Hey Zuz, I'm confused: My surf coach shouted at me

Let’s talk surf coaches.

This is a delicate topic. We don’t tend to talk about it for fear of repercussions. The power imbalance. The community response.

But it’s an important subject nevertheless, so we’re going to tackle it. We’re not going to make surf culture any better by staying silent.

As always, Hey Zuz, I’m Confused is based on aggregated stories, questions, and opinions.

And before we totally spiral—there are far more surf coaches who will make you fall in love with surfing over and over again than those who will make you want to quit.

👉 Read the full story

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Little good news—so a super short surf news roundup

🏅 Olympics power struggles
Olympic qualification could shift away from the WSL Championship Tour and toward ISA events for LA 2028, potentially reshaping who makes the Games.

🌧️🏄‍♂️ Surfing the puddles in Long Beach
A Long Beach surfer took advantage of flooded streets during a winter storm, getting towed behind a truck and turning neighborhood runoff into a temporary surf break.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—surf retreats, learn to surf, classifieds, surf-side lodging, you name it.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

👋 Happy Galentine’s & Valentine’s Day! 💛 No better week to dive into whether it’s better to be a guy or a girl in surfing. 😜

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• Surfing bigger waves can be done 🫰

• Step Into Liquid—the water’s fine 💧

• Better to be a surf dude or a dudette? 🧐

• You don’t need a perfect pop-up 🏄🏻‍♀️

• Willy Wonka’s Surf Emporium 🍫

• Surf news roundup 🗞️

^SURFODRAMA

😱 Surfing bigger waves can be done 🫰

Bigger waves. We’re not talking about “big waves,” just “little big waves.” You know—4ft+.

Why is it so hard to make the jump and take off on one of those, when in reality it’s only a tiny bit bigger than the beginner’s comfort zone of 2–3ft?

It’s frustrating. It stalls our progression. It makes us think we’re not real surfers.

You may be terrified of staring into the abyss, falling on the takeoff, wiping out in the shallows, or getting hit by your board. As there isn’t one single reason this happens, there’s no one-size-fits-all solution.

But just like Matt Damon going from growing potatoes in human poop on Mars to making it back to Earth—you can move from small surf to bigger conditions too. No matter how impossible it sounds right now.

👀 Staring into the abyss
You don’t have to suffer from vertigo or fear of heights to find bigger waves absolutely terrifying. The trick is not to look down.

Instead, do this. Eyes up, head follows. Look down the line and angle your takeoff. It automatically makes the wave feel smaller and less steep. Suddenly, your mind is focused only on the top 1–2ft of the wave.

And we like 1–2ft waves, don’t we?

🤺 The board attack
The fear of getting whacked in the head, losing consciousness and drowning, or experiencing the “fin meets face” scenario would put anyone off surfing bigger waves.

The solution? Ditch the board. For now.

Bodysurfing and boogie boarding are safer options if you want to explore bigger conditions. Yes, this means you should be a confident swimmer. But even when you’re surfing, you shouldn’t rely on the buoyancy of your board.

Plus, these two other flavors of surfing help you better understand how waves work. Warning: some surfers discover they prefer boogie boarding and never go back.

You can also wear a helmet to reduce the risk of getting whacked in the noggin.

🌗 Pick your tide, pick your energy, pick your wave type
If landing on rocks or reef scares you, the simplest solution is not to surf in the shallows. Pick conditions where there’s plenty of water to be thrown into.

As for being thrown violently around—less wave energy is your best friend. Try surfing taller but less powerful waves first.

A slow, rolling, sloping bigger wave is not the same as a fast, closing-out bigger wave. They may be harder to catch, but they are less likely to thrash you.

💛 Learn to love the wipeout
Coming off the board in small waves—not a problem. But when the conditions get bigger, there’s always a risk of getting pummeled.

More experienced surfers recommend breath-hold training or even freediving practice to reduce the fear of drowning.

Also, go out with a surf buddy. Someone who will look out for you when things get dicey. That extra peace of mind can make a real difference.

🧠 Trick the fear
Can you get rid of the fear of bigger waves? Yes—but only by actually doing it. It’s not the kind of fear you can fully train away on land or in tiny surf. Therapy didn’t work for us either.

It may help to realize it’s not the size itself—but the consequences your brain is reacting to. That’s why you might sometimes snag a bigger wave early in your surfing career, before you’re aware of all the things that could go wrong.

Try doing one thing at a time.

Can’t pop up consistently on smaller waves? Don’t try bigger ones yet.
Don’t know how to catch a wave at an angle? Don’t try bigger ones yet.
Only surfed in the tropics? Don’t try bigger cold-water waves yet.

You get the gist. Don’t rush it. Build confidence in smaller waves first. Then step up—and repeat—until the fear fades into background noise. Just barely audible.

^{SURF THRU HISTORY}

💧 Step Into Liquid—the water’s fine

I love Riding Giants. Who doesn’t?

The “other” surf documentary, Step Into Liquid (2003) actually preceded Riding Giants (2004) by about a year—even though people often mentally group them the other way around.

Both movies came out in the early 2000s, when big-wave surfing was entering mainstream awareness, and tow-in surfing had made it possible to ride waves previously considered “unsurfable”. Mavericks also became a cultural symbol—not just a surf spot.

🔄 Same era, different energy
If you’ve watched both, you’ll remember there’s an overlap in the big wave stories, involving both Laird Hamilton and Mavericks. But that’s where the similarities, at least for me, end.

Step Into Liquid was written and directed by Dana Brown, son of The Endless Summer’s Bruce Brown. According to the Encyclopedia of Surfing and The Surfer’s Journal, it was—quote—“undeniably an Endless Summer derivative, but also marvelous in its own right and for its own reasons.”

The movie took three years to make and cost $2.5 million. According to the Encyclopedia of Surfing, it made $20 million. According to Wikipedia, it made just over $3 million. The internet can’t agree. If it’s any consolation, it can’t agree on how much Riding Giants made either. So let’s just move on, shall we.

✨ Where it shines
The more fun fact is that it was originally supposed to be called The Endless Summer III. And honestly, it would’ve worked just fine.

Because where Step Into Liquid really shines isn’t the big-wave surfing or footage of Taj Burrow, Layne Beachley, and Laird defying gravity. It’s the quieter, stranger stories.

Dale Webster surfing consecutively for 14,642 days (a few less at the time of filming). Texans surfing oil-tanker waves in the Gulf of Mexico. Yes—the Gulf of Mexico. Always. Even the genuinely corny Malloy brothers choosing Ireland as their surfing destination. It’s cute. Cozy.

While Riding Giants is a great primer on surfing and surf culture—fascinated with very big waves—Step Into Liquid keeps asking a different question: how many different ways are there to surf?

And that makes it fantastic viewing. Watch it.

^{SURFODRAMA #2}

🧐 Is it better to be a surf dude or a dudette?

Is it better to be a guy or a girl in surfing? We really wanted to say, “the answer will surprise you.” It’s not that—but it’s still worth taking a moment to think about.

This story is split into two parts. Part 1 deals with “the uncomfortable” and last year’s events that ended up in court. Therefore—a trigger warning.

Part 2 is safe to read. No warnings.

👉 Read Part 1 (includes link to Part 2)
👉 Read Part 2 only

^{GIRL WHO CHOSE TO PADDLE ANYWAY}

🏄🏻‍♀️ You don’t need a perfect pop-up, Jen

Meet Jen, who: a) is in the water 5 mornings a week, b) didn’t start until she was 55, c) found waaaay more than just the joy of surfing in the lineup.

This is a must-read story for anyone who’s obsessing over their pop-up.

👉 Read the full story

^{ALL THINGS SURF DIRECTORY}

🍫📍 Welcome to Willy Wonka’s Surf Emporium (okay, not quite)

We very much like to think about the All Things Surf Directory as Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory—but for surf stuff. Even if it’s still early days.

You’ve all found a Golden Ticket and can now proceed to explore the upcoming surf retreats featured in the directory.

Sri Lanka with The Sevana in February and March
Nicaragua with Surfin Fire
South Africa with Honeybush Swell in April
El Salvador with Shred Sisters in April
Portugal with Surf n’ Zouk in May

👉 Explore all the surf retreats

All Things Surf Directory is not just for surf retreats. It’s for all things surf. And anyone can contribute (it’s totally free)!

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Heavy surf. Marine rescues. Big wave injuries, and more.

🚤 Boat capsizes in Steamer Lane lineup
A boat sped through the Steamer Lane surf zone in heavy conditions, flipped in the whitewater, and surfers in the lineup helped rescue all six occupants before authorities arrived.

🚁 Search suspended for two Santa Cruz surfers
The Coast Guard halted a large multi-agency search near the Santa Cruz lighthouse after no missing persons reports matched the distress call and no surfers were located.

🏥 Justine Dupont injured at Todos Santos event
Big wave charger Justine Dupont suffered an L1 vertebral fracture during the Thriller at Killers competition but is expected to recover and return to surfing.

🏅 USA Surfing names new commissioner
Todd Kline has been appointed USA Surfing’s new Surf Athlete Commissioner to represent competitors and help steer Olympic pathway decisions toward the 2028 LA Games.

🎬 £10,000 Women of the Sea film fund opens
The Women of the Sea Film Fund is now accepting submissions and will award a £10,000 grant to a women-led surf film premiering at the 2026 London Surf / Film Festival.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—launching soon, but check out a selection of surf retreats today.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊

––––

👋 Happy National Chocolate Fondue Day! 🍓 We’re gearing up for the launch of the All Things Surf Directory, and the chocolate connection will make sense in a minute, we promise!

🏄‍♀️ Let’s surf:

• Will you get bitten by a shark this year? 🦈

• What Aloha actually means 🌺

• Why Raglan matters (and what is it?) 🤔

• All Things Surf Directory is coming! 🙌

• Conquering Australian lineups 🏄🏻‍♀️

• Celebrity news roundup 🤢🗞️

• Passion, not obsession pod 🎙️

^SURFODRAMA

😱 Will you get bitten by a shark this year? 🦈

This is really just a little pep talk—to myself, and to anyone who’s listening—to remind ourselves that we won’t get bitten or eaten by a shark in 2026. Most likely. Almost definitely.

Because despite having done my research, and having written extensively about sharks and surfers, the latest incident near Monterey involving a triathlete’s death from a shark bite, as well as four recent shark attacks—one of them fatal—in Sydney, left me a little shook.

Especially as it’s been reported that the swimmer in California was wearing a shark band. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the concept, it’s an electromagnetic device that you wear on your ankle that is supposed to interfere with a shark’s built-in sensory system.

This, combined with the fact that even though we only started our surf news roundup four months ago, we’ve already covered shark stories 12 times, could make anyone feel slightly paranoid.

🦈 How rare shark attacks actually are
Shark attacks are rare. Like, really rare. And in the US they are even rarer—or is it more rare? You’ve heard the stats: you are more likely to be in a car accident driving to the beach or get struck by lightning. According to science, the chances of being bitten are incredibly small: 1 in 4.3 million.

But despite attacks being so rare, are they perhaps a teeny tiny bit less rare now?

We went back to do some serious shark research and returned with good news: the answer is no. No, shark attacks are no more frequent than they have ever been. If anything, the number of bites has been steadily dropping over the last decade, according to marine scientists. The reason? We are more aware of sharks than ever.

🦈 So why does it feel like Sharknado?
Three reasons.

One—everyone has a phone, and shark bites (or the results of shark bites) are now reported with visual evidence pretty much in real time. Our fascination with sharks knows no bounds, so these incidents are reported far and wide. The same shark story may even be covered multiple times.

Two—and of course, there’s social media, where this stuff goes viral. So all you’re seeing is: shark, shark, shark. No wonder we’re freaking out. Just this week, a drone video of surfers in La Jolla, California, swarmed by sharks was being shared on Instagram and Threads. Thankfully, most surfers were quick to point out that these were leopard sharks, lovingly called “puppies of the ocean,” and that this situation occurs very frequently. But now imagine if a wannabe surfer saw this footage without any additional commentary. Sometimes it’s just better not to know what’s below the surface.

Reason number three—and this is perhaps more specific to the US. More people than ever now live on the coast—30 percent of the population, to be precise. This means more folks going to the beach and taking up ocean sports. You do the math.

If you want to know more about how to avoid encounters with sharks, we do have a guide on that. And while we cannot guarantee anything, we believe that the chances of any of us being attacked by a shark in 2026 are still extremely low. 🦈

^{WORD OF THE WEEK}

🌺 What Aloha actually means

Aloha is a very familiar word to surfers across the globe. It means “hello” and “goodbye,” right? If that were the case, this story would be a paragraph long. But as it happens, some anthropologists and linguists believe that Aloha doesn’t have a direct equivalent in English at all.

☺️ What Aloha means
In Hawaiian, alo means presence, face, front, sharing, being with—and hā means breath, life force, life. Early Hawaiian dictionaries described Aloha as a word expressing a wide range of feelings: love, affection, gratitude, kindness, pity, compassion—but also grief.

Etymologically, Aloha belongs to the broader family of Polynesian languages and is often connected to qarofa (Proto-Polynesian: love, pity, compassion) and the Proto-Oceanic root qarop(-i), meaning “to feel pity, empathy, or sorrow.”

🥰 What Aloha also means
There are other interpretations, too. One breaks the word into alo (sharing), oha (joyous affection), and hā (life energy; breath), resulting in “the joyful sharing of life energy in the present.”

Another equates Aloha with “sparkling with positive thoughts in order to procure a positive reality for all.”

And Queen Liliʻuokalani is often quoted as saying: “Aloha is to learn what is not said, to see what cannot be seen, and to know the unknowable.”

^{SURF SPOT SPOTLIGHT}

🤔 Why Raglan matters: History, resistance, and a very very long left

J-Bay is out, Raglan is on the Championship Tour (it’s that thing the pro surfers do). So what’s so special about this Kiwi wave?

🇳🇿 Where Raglan is—and where it comes from
Raglan sits on the west coast of New Zealand’s North Island, about two hours from Auckland and 45 minutes west of Hamilton.

Before it became a surf pilgrimage, Raglan—Whāingaroa—was (and is) Māori land, long inhabited by Waikato-Tainui iwi. The name is often translated as “the long bay” or “the long pursuit.”

After the New Zealand Wars in the 19th century, large areas of land around Raglan were confiscated by the Crown (you know, the British). During WWII, more land was taken to build an airfield—with a promise it would be returned. It wasn’t.

That broken promise led to one of Aotearoa’s (Aotearoa is the Māori name for New Zealand) most significant land-rights movements. In the 1970s, Māori activist Eva Rickard led protests and occupations demanding the land back. Arrests followed. So did change. In 1983, the land was finally returned—making Raglan a powerful symbol of Indigenous resistance and reclamation.

🌊 The wave itself
Surfwise, Raglan is New Zealand’s most famous wave—and yes, it’s a left. According to the Encyclopedia of Surfing, it’s “capable of producing rides of nearly surreal length.”

Back in 1989, Surfing magazine named Raglan one of the “25 Best Waves in the World.”

Raglan is made up of five separate surf spots: a beachbreak, a reefbreak, and three point breaks. Manu Bay is the prettiest—and the star—capable of carrying you hundreds of meters on the right swell and tide. Whale Bay is more exposed, faster, and heavier, while Indicators offers a softer entry point.

And when those three points link together? You get a continuous wave that can run for more than two miles.

Quoting the Encyclopedia of Surfing again:
“On such occasions, local surfers take turns waiting at the base of the point to drive groups of their friends back to the starting area.”

Raglan is generally best during summer and fall, when four- to six-foot surf is fairly common and water temperatures sit in the mid-60s.

🌞 From endless summer to the Championship Tour
Like many waves before it, Raglan was introduced to the world in 1964—because of course Bruce Brown and The Endless Summer. Pre–Endless Summer, you could surf Raglan by your lonesome. Post–Endless Summer, “surfers would be scrambling down the hill like termites exiting a smoking tree”—a quote from a New Zealand journalist that still holds up.

Raglan has been a fixture on the New Zealand Championship Circuit for years. Now, it’s officially stepping onto the world stage, with its debut as a Championship Tour stop in May—marking a big moment not just for the wave, but for New Zealand surfing as a whole.

^{ALL THINGS SURF DIRECTORY}

🏄🏻‍♀️📍 Our All Things Surf Directory is community-built

Community-built. Not Oompa Loompa-built.

The All Things Surf Directory is basically Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory, but for surf stuff.

We’re just starting out, but today you can explore a small selection of upcoming surf retreats, including the ones in Sri Lanka, Nicaragua and South Africa, in our All Things Surf Directory.

Our mission is to make it easier for you to find surf instructors at your local break, a new apartment by the beach, a job or a volunteering opportunity that will let you surf every day. Or a surf-friendly conditioner. Or a workshop on cross-stepping. Or a second-hand board near you. Or your next surf forecasting app. Or a surf meetup. Surf’s the limit!

So please spread the word to anyone and everyone who should have their listing (it’s totally free!) in our All Things Surf Directory.

You can check out the instructions on how to add a listing or head to the directory.

Just keep in mind that we only have a handful of listings right now. 🥰 Your feedback and ideas are always welcome!

^{GIRL WHO TOOK UP SPACE}

🏄🏻‍♀️ Conquering Australian lineups as an adult learner: Silvia’s story

As if surfing is not hard enough, learning as an adult in the highly competitive lineups of Australia makes it almost impossible. Silvia persevered.

For anyone who’s getting out there on their own and feels like they don’t belong—this one is for you.

👉 Read the full story

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY SURF NEWS ROUNDUP}

🗞️ Celebrity news roundup: Prince Harry. Jason Momoa. John John Florence. And U.S. Ski & Snowboard.

At The Wipeout Weekly, we strive to round up mostly positive surf news for you every week. This week, well, we struggled. Please forgive us. 😜

🤴 Prince Harry–a surfer?
The biggest story this week is not that Prince Harry went out surfing at Kelly’s Surf Ranch to the tune of $50,000 for a day, but that he surfed pretty well.

👑 Jason Momoa—a surfing royalty?
We got all excited thinking Jason Momoa is somehow a forgotten descendant of King Kamehameha. But the headline was slightly misleading. He is related to the surfing legend–Buffalo Keaulana.

👴John John Florence–a pensioner?
John John announced that he would not be returning to the Championship Tour in 2026. He will spend time with his family sailing around the globe instead.

🛹 U.S. Ski & Snowboard–asking for more trouble?
After pursuing surfing for nine months and ultimately failing to get it under its wing, U.S. Ski & Snowboard is now going after skateboarding.

👉 Read the full news roundup

^{THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY PODCAST}

🎙️ Surfing as a passion, not an obsession with Surfer Cass

We’re not gonna lie. We have certain preconceptions about surfluencers. To spend this much time surfing, filming surfing, editing surfing, posting about surfing, you have to be obsessed. And that ain’t healthy.

That’s why it was so refreshing to hear from Cass when she came to our studio about why it took her so long to start surfing, how she hopes to help other surfers who are facing similar challenges, and where she goes from here.

🎧 Listen to The Wipeout Weekly on your fav pod platform or right here.

^{ALL THINGS THE WIPEOUT WEEKLY}

_{The Wipeout Weekly—our home and digital magazine.
The Wee Surf Shoppe—explore useful, cute, and sometimes simply outrageous surf “stuffs”.
The Wipeout Weekly podcast—daily surf stories and weekly* guests.
All Things Surf Directory—launching soon, but check out a selection of surf retreats today.
Girls Who Can’t Surf Good—an 86k-member-strong private group on Facebook.}
Feedback—we do want to hear from you! Whatever is on your mind, drop us a line.

⬆️ Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! 🌊