Sponsored by

Good morning,

We’re coming up to gardening season and while I’ve already planted a number of seedlings, we’ve had a bit of chillier weather lately. I’ll need to wait and see how they fare. But I’ll have more tips on all that in an upcoming edition.

Today we head to the ByWard to drop in for lunch at a well known Thai restaurant and I recap a few highlights from last week's Literary Feast in the Horticulture Building at Lansdowne.

Grab a cup of comfort and let’s get started.

Ralf Joneikies, food and drink editor. ralf.joneikies@ottawalookout.com

THAI

Noodle dishes at Khao Thai hit the right note

Khao Thai. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

It was back to another beloved restaurant in Ottawa’s Thai food scene. Khao Thai in the ByWard Market.

In the past, I would stop in on my visits back to Ottawa and always left feeling satisfied. Then, two years ago, I had an experience of a different sort.

In the mood for Thai, as I often am, I thought I might do a review. I popped in shy of an hour before the lunchtime closing and was immediately made to feel unwelcome. 

Unfortunately, the servers were visibly irritated that I’d walked in. There were a few others finishing their lunches, and I would soon be on the receiving end of the frostiest service in memory. 

I couldn’t, in good conscience, commit myself to reviewing this experience.

Khao Thai appetizer soup. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Now, with a different lunchtime service team, my meal had a more welcome feel. 

With lunch, you are given a clear chicken broth with a few bits of vegetables as a starter. It was simple and pleasant.

Khao Thai spring rolls. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Khao Thai spring rolls are as good as those at many other Thai restaurants. Unusually, I ordered shrimp rolls, and they were perfectly fine. To my mind, Thai shrimp rolls are never a value. You get one shrimp wrapped and deep fried. That’s it. Nothing else.

The vegetable spring rolls were fresh and reasonably seasoned but were simply unmemorable. My take away is that the oil was, at the very least, clean.

Khao Thai Pad Thai. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

I can’t eat Thai without trying each restaurant's version of the national dish – Pad Thai.

Without needing to ask them to make it without ketchup, it arrived in its traditional sauce of tamarind, fish sauce, lime juice and palm sugar. 

It had sufficient seasoning, which kept it moist, and the noodles were al dente with enough spring to them that eating was a pleasure. The accompanying shrimp were large and sweet. A very good expression of a classic.

Khao Thai tom yum rice. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Stir-fried rice dishes from the Thai kitchen can be an absolute treat. This was not one of them.

The presentation was anemic and not at all a representation of what’s shown on the website. It was more like a long-abandoned biryani. 

The buried scallops, shrimp and squid tasted fine, but the rice felt old, and the amount of red curry seasoning gave the whole dish a suspiciously sour taste. 

Honestly, I should have sent it back, but I just couldn’t go through the bother of getting it replaced. Also, out of an abundance of caution, I never accept replacement dishes. 

Khao Thai Pad Khee Mao. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

The final dish of Pad Khee Mao (Drunken Noodles) was the star of the afternoon. As with the Pad Thai, the wider rice noodles were toothsome and delightful.

I’d ordered this dish with beef and, miraculously, this kitchen had velvetized the meat. That’s not so common. It was properly tender, and the dish had that nice wok-seasoned taste. 

The vegetables were also on point with good colour, and honestly, they could have added a few more florets of broccoli. It was just that tasty.

Pad Khee Mao is typically one of the spicier noodle dishes, but this was on the milder end of the spectrum.

On a Friday afternoon, Khao Thai was well visited, and it’s understandable. After more than 20 years, it still delivers quality Thai food.

There were certainly inconsistencies, but my experience showed they’re capable of very good execution of recipes, and you’ll enjoy an inviting, nicely decorated space.

Did you know Capital Eats relies on readers like you to help locals discover our journalism? If you have a moment, please consider sharing this story: Facebook | Twitter | Linkedin | Bluesky | Email | Copy this url

Have a comment on a story? Submit it to our Comment Corner and it might be included in a newsletter: Share your comment

Suggested reviews

• New Thai restaurant Lotus of Siam has elevated intentions

• Sala Thai continues to be South Ottawa’s Thai destination

• Thai Flame brings the heat

SPONSORED BY RESTAURANTS CANADA

It’s not the menu. It’s the people

Across Canada, restaurants are struggling to find enough staff.  

Not because they aren’t hiring, but because there are not enough people to fill the roles. You see it in shorter hours, added strain on staff, longer waits and tough decisions about staying open. 

Behind every great meal are many hands. And when some of those hands are missing, everyone feels it. 

Take a minute to watch and see the many hands that keep the restaurant industry moving. 

EVENT

The Literary Feast

Literary Feast organizers and authors. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Last week, Ottawans were treated to The Literary Feast, organized by Joe Thottungal and his team in support of St. Joe’s Women's Centre.

Chefs brought not only their kitchen talents to this event, but their latest culinary treasures wrapped in books.

Literary Feast cookbooks. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Justin Champagne Lagarde of Perch was on hand with delicious small bites and his newly minted cookbook Perch - soil, land and sea.

Star chef at Aiāna, Raghav Chaudhary, was signing copies of his first book, Gather, Savor, Share. In it, he gives us the favourite meals of Aiāna’s staff.

It’s a pan-global exploration of food with dishes such as Acadian Chowder, Butter Chicken, Gunslinger’s Turkey Chili and Olive and Thyme Focaccia, to name a few. The dessert section looks equally appealing. 

While we might always marvel at the complexity and presentation of his dishes at Aiāna, his book is nicely laid out and easy to follow. You’ll be wowed by how easy much of the execution appears to be in these straightforward dishes. It actually inspires you to cook.

Michael Hunter of Toronto’s Antler Kitchen and Bar was there with his new book Hunter Chef in the Wild.  

In it, he shares techniques for smoking, grilling, and even canning wild game and fish. If you’ve ever wondered how to cure wild salmon roe, then you’re in the right place. 

You’ll find recipes for goose jerky, birch syrup-glazed bison short ribs and bear ragout over cheddar polenta. If it lives out in the wild, then you’ll find it between the covers of this cookbook.

Literary Feast: a writer and two chefs. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

There was so much to explore that evening. Between stop-and-chats and samplings, it was a challenge to make your way around the room completely. 

I was however, delighted to run into Chef/owner of Black Tartan Kitchen Ian Carswell (centre) and Michael Hunter (right) chef/owner of Antler Kitchen and Bar. It turns out the two are friends and cooked together more than 20 years ago.

Thank you to Joe Thottungal and all those good people around him who made this a very special evening.

DRINK

Summer comes early with these ready to drink options at the LCBO

RTD collection 2026

Some time back (more than 20 years ago), an LCBO manager and friend, told me that the board would be putting more effort into promoting ready-to-drink (RTD) options. There was just that much more margin per unit. 

So despite their concurrent campaign to discourage booze from getting into the hands of youth, they began heavily encouraging RTD sales.

I recently spoke with a number of LCBO employees and all expressed that they “weren’t surprised” that in 2026, their employer had started promoting RTDs, earlier than ever. 

When I returned to Ottawa, I learned that there were producers in Quebec who were leading the way in this category. Not only was the packaging nicer, they also had better ingredients, less sugar and were more enjoyable. 

Read the story

QUICK BITES

• On May 20 at the Lansdowne Horticultural Bldg. Kiwanis Feeds Kids will be hosting its annual fundraiser. Some of the city’s top chefs will be on hand to feed you so that Kiwanis may feed those in need.

• Little Barcelona restaurant in Prescott has just been honoured with a special award from the Spanish government. I’ll take a moment to shamelessly remind readers that Capital Eats was the first publication to feature Little Barcelona two years ago. [CTV]

• Ottawa Centretown is looking at a revival and it begins with a food focus [CTV]

LATEST STORIES

Sponsored by

Good morning,

Playing in the garden yet? If not, a good way to get started is by visiting Just Food farm for Seedling Saturday on May 9 from 10 am - 2 pm. Approximately 16 seedling vendors will be on hand along with local food vendors. Bring the family.

Today we look at Ottawa’s newest Vietnamese restaurant and I’m taking a bit of a different approach. I sit down with one of my favourite chefs in the city to see what’s new and learn a little about his culinary preferences. 

Happy Mother’s Day!

Ralf Joneikies, food and drink editor. ralf.joneikies@ottawalookout.com

SPONSORED BY RESTAURANTS CANADA

It’s not the menu. It’s the people

Across Canada, restaurants are struggling to find enough staff.  

Not because they aren’t hiring, but because there are not enough people to fill the roles. You see it in shorter hours, added strain on staff, longer waits and tough decisions about staying open. 

Behind every great meal are many hands. And when some of those hands are missing, everyone feels it. 

Take a minute to watch and see the many hands that keep the restaurant industry moving. 

VIETNAMESE

La Nhâu raises the bar for Vietnamese food in Ottawa

La Nhâu interior. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

When I learned of a new Vietnamese restaurant in the ByWard, it caught my attention. When I saw their menu, my curiosity was even more piqued. I knew that I would need to have lunch here with one of my favourite Ottawa chefs. 

This was not going to be your bog-standard Vietnamese but something with greater aspirations. I’d arrived a little early for our lunch meeting so I ordered a few appetizers in advance of my lunch date's arrival

La Nhâu crab spring rolls. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

With decades of living in Toronto and Vancouver, I’d always had Vietnamese spring rolls done in rice wrappers. I find the resulting crunch and flavour more appealing.

It was when I returned to Ottawa that I was served, almost exclusively, spring rolls done in wheat wrappers. Over recent years, I’ve been told that the wheat wrappers are more authentic, but I’m suspicious of this. Lucky for me, La Nhâu — meatraning to socialize over drinks — provides their magnificent spring rolls in rice wrappers.

I’d ordered the crab spring rolls which came as deep-fried squares that had been cut into triangles. The crisp wrapper bent and crunched to the sweet filling of crab, jicama, glass noodles, egg and myriad other ingredients. The housemade sweet dipping fish sauce made the experience even more perfect. As if it needed it.

La Nhâu chicken wings. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

The fish sauce-glazed chicken wings immediately reminded me of the extra-large capon wings I would eat at Allen’s on the Danforth when I lived in Toronto. 

These were meaty wings that had been cooked from a fresh, rather than frozen, state. The meat came off the bone with ease and flavour packed crisp skin had me behaving as elegantly as a truffle pig. Perhaps we’re looking at a top wing contender for 2026?

The timing was perfect as at that moment my lunch guest arrived. 

Chef Teegavarapu Sarath Mohan. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

In some cultures, the last name is pronounced first, and so it is with Chef Teegavarapu Sarath Mohan. If you know him, he goes by Sarath, and he leaves an auspicious brief history of notable restaurants behind him: Vivaan, Kathā and Ek Bar. 

He recently left Ek Bar to start a new restaurant that may be a first for the city: a chicken supper club. It’s slated to open near the end of May (take that with a grain of salt as licensing is a capricious game) at 820 Somerset St. W between Booth and Rochester streets.

I watched as he enjoyed the crab roll, picking the various elements from the wrapper for individual assessment. A strategy so familiar.

For a moment, he seemed to go deeper inside himself, contemplating what he was experiencing. On another visit I would have the pork and shrimp spring rolls which were every bit as good.

La Nhâu mango salad. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

The mango and shrimp salad was a refreshing marvel. All the fibrous elements at their peak of freshness and flavour. The mango had both the acidity of something slightly underripe and the beginnings of the flavour we love. A perfect moment.

Mohan arrived in Ottawa from his home in Hyderabad, in Southern India, the capital of the state of Telangana, which is viewed as a centre of India’s technology industry. 

He landed in Ottawa in 2013 to begin his studies in computer engineering. By 2015, working at Rasam in the ByWard to make extra money, he caught the restaurant bug. 

It was here that he was taught how to create sauces, becaming enamoured with the processes.

He enjoyed cooking, but when the owner of Rasam suddenly abandoned his restaurant, Sarath stepped in to do what he could to salvage the enterprise.

That was all he needed and his parents weren’t happy.  As he told me, “My parents really did not want me to go into the culinary world.” 

La Nhâu beef carpaccio. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

The thinly sliced quality cut of beef tenderloin arrived as Vietnamese-accented carpaccio and was refreshingly simple. Dressed in peanuts, sweet onions, coriander, lime and toasted garlic, it was enjoyably bright and appetite-inducing and was clearly a hit with us both.

La Nhâu house special Pho. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

“After my experience at Rasam, I took a couple of years off to contemplate next moves.” The culinary arts had captivated him completely, and with a burning innate talent, he pursued a restaurant business. 

Over the superior Pho at La Nhâu, he told me how he envisions revitalizing Kathã. In Sanskrit, Kathã means storytelling, and it was his idea to tell the regional stories of food through his menu.

He didn’t participate in this dish, but the broth was deep with colour and flavours of spice such as cinnamon and star anise, with good doses of rich beefy umami. Co-owner Johnny Tran mentioned they slow cook for 24 hours to create the broth, and I found the use of MSG to be minimal.

The slices of raw beef were of a superior quality as were the noodles that kept their firmness and didn’t dissolve into a milky cloud in the broth.

Mohan had mentioned that his favourite Pho was to be had at a Chinatown restaurant named Pho Thu Do. I was happy to share with him that La Nhâu is the second restaurant of the folks behind Pho Thu Do.

La Nhâu banana blossom beef salad. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Over the years and at various charitable events, I would be impressed with Mohan’s small bites as I had been consistently impressed with those of Black Tartan Chef Ian Carswell. Both had a laser focus and instinct for elements that would harmonize in flavours, textures and appearance. 

Now here was another interesting development: Chef Mohan also happens to be a fan of Carswell. “I think there is a lot of honesty in his cooking”, he said. 

“Working with quality ingredients and letting them speak. Hyper seasonal and very thoughtful cooking. And obviously, the kind of community work that he does is very inspiring.”

This is a case in point that if you understand who you are and have an endless curiosity, you don’t need formal training to become a chef. It’s remarkable given how sophisticated his dishes, plating and techniques are. He’s got an organic sensibility and it translates into, to borrow a phrase, “very thoughtful cooking.”

As someone who’s not partial to bananas, he passed on the banana blossom beef salad, but I enjoyed it on a subsequent visit. 

Banana blossoms are finely shaved, rested in lime water, removed and then tossed with fresh herbs. The lightly sweet dressing of lime and fish sauce created an appealing synergy with the watery crunch of the blossoms. The sinew-free slices of beef were melt-in-the-mouth tender.

La Nhâu garlic noodles. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

I asked Mohan one of my standard wine questions: Riesling or Chardonnay? 

He replied, “ I always considered it to be Riesling but seem to have grown out of it.  Now I enjoy a good Chardonnay. One that I really love is Paul Clüver, it is a Village Chardonnay from Elgin, South Africa.”

I checked and these wines are currently sold out at both the SAQ and LCBO. From the description, however, I imagined it would go very well with the Vietnamese garlic noodles. 

This is a dish that was developed by Helene An, a Vietnamese refugee who fled to San Francisco in the mid-70s. In order to create greater appeal for her restaurant, she saw that Americans were fond of pasta and so she created a dish that represented both cultures.

It is now considered a classic around the world, and from what I’ve seen, La Nhâu is the only Vietnamese restaurant in Ottawa to offer this dish.

Think of it as a version of pasta aglio e olio, but with butter standing in for the olive oil. The almost invisible seasoning can also involve a small smattering of soy, oyster sauce, fish sauce and a dusting of parmesan cheese. Umami all-around and crave-inducing with that pop of sweet shrimp and al dente pasta.

I asked Mohan about his personal favourite eateries and he mentioned: Supply and Demand, Torta Boyz, Izakaya Shingen and Raphaël. After a long night in the kitchen, he also finds himself at Thr33’s Company Snack Bar as they’re open until 2 am.

La Nhâu owners (L to R) Minh Duong & Johnny Tran. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

His approach to cooking is also what he sees as a continuing restaurant trend: “Stronger regional storytelling through food with a smaller and more intimate format.” 

Regional storytelling is certainly what La Nhâu owners Minh Duong and Johnny Tran are shooting for. Already their menu offers Vietnamese dishes seldom seen in Ottawa and Tran tells me that they will continue to rotate in recipes from throughout Vietnam in the coming year.

La Nhâu is on track to do for Vietnamese food what Khao Street Food did for Thai cuisine last year. It’s bringing exciting new regional recipes that energize the palate and provide an education. 

It’s also raising the bar for Vietnamese cuisine across the city. Last year's entry into this space, the very good Cô Ơi Kitchen heralded that something new was happening. The arrival of La Nhâu may only accelerate the process for greater diversity in the Vietnamese culinary scene. 

As for Chef Mohan’s newest restaurant, he’s taken inspiration from NYCs Coqodaq where fried chicken is served with Champagne, wine and cocktails. If all goes according to plan, the doors will swing open before June.

QUICK BITES

• Three Ottawa restaurants have made it onto Canada’s Top 100 list. [CTV]

• Savvy Co. has some fab gift ideas for Mother’s Day. They’re all Canadian too!

• Executive chef for E18hteen group of restaurants, David Godsoe will be stepping down after ten years. [Yahoo News]

LATEST STORIES

Sponsored by

Good morning,

We’re all feeling it…the sun and warmer weather can’t come soon enough. I have a few ideas on why this particular winter was extra hard and I don’t think it was just down to the weather. Other events just made it feel longer.

Turning to happier thoughts, the Tim Horton’s Smile Cookie Campaign is on in support of the Snowsuit Fund and will be running until May 3. 100% of every cookie sold is donated. Last year in Ottawa, it raised enough to purchase 6,700 snowsuits for children from low-income families. A worthy endeavour.

Today, we visit Ottawa’s latest premium Japanese dining venue and while it’s a very inviting space, does the food match the ambiance?

For a drink pairing, I take a look at two new sakes from the producer Sho Chiku Bai.

Let’s jump in.

Ralf Joneikies, food and drink editor. ralf.joneikies@ottawalookout.com

JAPANESE

Fine Japanese-Korean dining at Akira Back

Akira Back interior. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Weeks ago, I missed the media opening of Akira Back, the eponymous new dining experience of an expanding global brand at the Chateau Laurier.

I was privileged to then receive an invitation to experience Akira Back through the management team. With everything the brand was bringing to the Ottawa market, it was a fine introduction.

Chef Back was born in 1974 Seoul, South Korea, and in 1989, his father’s business took the family to America, eventually settling in Aspen, Colorado. While there, he pursued a professional snowboarding career, which led to him appearing in a few sports movies.

He simultaneously worked at Japanese restaurants, and there he had the idea to become a chef. He then enrolled at the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Colorado. 

In 2008, he opened Yellowtail at the Bellagio resort in Las Vegas and in 2017 received his first Michelin star for Dosa (London).

His growing empire has now expanded to more than 23 brands globally and others are on the way.

Akira Geisha cocktail. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

My dinner companion and I entered a well-appointed space with sombre lighting that reminded me of a big city supper club.

Sitting down on a lovely, curved banquette, the next step was to order cocktails. When they arrived, both the Geisha and Lychi-tini were nicely imagined and reasonably priced at $20. 

The issue you may have with the Geisha, using Vancouver Island’s Empress gin, is that it’s a little too appealing. You may have a second before the dinner begins. Woe is you.

The trance-inducing EDM, piped through a good sound system, was at a reasonable level. I became aware however, of a very similar and noticeable thumping bassline that carried through from track to track. 

Akira miso soup. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Most folks experienced in Japanese dining are familiar with miso soup as a starter. It’s commonly mediocre using just chicken stock as a base. Some restaurants step it up a notch using the very credible Hondashi, a powdered dashi stock.

Dashi is made using kombu kelp and katsuoboshi (bonito) fish flakes. It’s a base to which is added silken tofu, scallions, nori and sometimes a small selection of mushrooms.

This is what is presented at Akira: a deep and umami-rich broth with the natural hit of smokiness from the dried fish. Finally, miso as it should be. Complete with deliciously nutty Nameko mushrooms. A nice touch.

Akira cucumber salad. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

The AB cucumber salad evoked a quiet surprise, an appreciation for the work that went into the presentation. For the price, it was the bargain of the evening. 

Fine florets of crisp cucumber created an attractive bouquet dressed in amazu. This is an oil-free dressing of cooked rice vinegar, sugar and water that amplifies the freshness of the vegetable. The final touch was freshly roasted sesame seeds.

This was a salad as simple as it gets but you won’t forget it. You’re likely to order it with each visit. 

Akira spot prawn nigiri. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

During my first years in Vancouver, I tested the limits of my ability to eat spot prawns. Easy enough to do when you’re paying $12 a pound. Those days are long over.

Still, it was nice to see them as nigiri on the menu. I couldn’t resist revisiting the experience. 

Whereas prawn nigiri is always served cooked, spot prawns are left raw because the sweetness and uniquely sensual texture are precisely the point. If you’ve not had spot prawns before, I can only recommend them.

Akira Negitoro roll. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Toro is a fattier cut of tuna and typically comes from the belly. With its high fat content, Otoro is the most prized and expensive. 

The next level is the medium-fat Chutoro, which has some of the characteristics of Otoro and red tuna. This is what is commonly used in the popular negitoro roll.

A judicious use of green onion (negi) plays nicely against the richness of the tuna belly and the sweet bounce of the rice.

A word here about both the rice and the soy sauce. While many Japanese restaurants use regular and commercial soy for sushi, that is not what a more traditional experience would offer.

At Akira, they make their own seasoned soy for the fish. It’s lighter in colour and has a delicate sweetness that is so much nicer than what we’re used to. 

The rice at Akira is a modest star. It’s just rice after all, but its expert preparation lays the foundation for superior sushi. 

Akira miso black cod. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Miso black cod is a classic in Japanese cuisine. It’s also known as sablefish and has a higher fat content, hence its sumptuous mouthfeel.

It’s given a marinade of mirin, miso and sake and left to develop flavour for 24-48 hours. It is then seared skin side down to caramelize the sugars in the marinade. When I make it, I then finish it under the broiler.

The fish was perfect – elegantly seasoned, flaky and buttery. We were advised to have it with the accompanying yuzu-lemon foam. I appreciated the brightness this brought to the rich black cod.

On the menu it was labelled as a sharing dish. Yet at almost $50 the portion was very modest and came with only one flash-fried shishito pepper.

Akira wagyu rice. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Once again, the cooking of the rice was first-rate with this side of Wagyu fried rice and it was so delicious that I wanted much more. The beef had been cubed, but was so small that it was difficult to get a sufficient beefy sensation with each bite.

Akira mushroom toban. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Vegans and mushroom lovers will find comfort in the mushroom toban. Portobello, king oyster and shimeji mushrooms are cooked and then served in a hot cast-iron skillet. 

After the mushrooms have been seared, the pan is deglazed with sake and then seasoned with yuzu and soy. The mushrooms are returned to the sizzling pan and sprinkled with slivered scallions.

Both in flavour and texture, it was a well-done dish and surprisingly filling. The wagyu fried rice married beautifully with the toban.

I looked across to the people seated at the sushi bar and was struck by something odd. They were being served by staff from the floor. 

What’s desirable about sitting at the sushi bar is that you have a direct connection with the chef preparing your food. It’s a much more intimate and special experience when they themselves place the food in front of you.

Akira manager Candace Battig & Chef de Cuisine Andrew Ham. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

The dessert menu arrived. I regret not sampling a few interesting items such as the AB Cigar (miso caramel ice cream & cocoa nibs) and the Yuzu Citrus (yuzu curd & strawberry gelato). 

The problem was that, after two hours, my companion and I felt our nerves were frayed. It was that endless bassline thumping of the music that finally precipitated an early exit. It was no longer doable.

A final thought is that they need to rethink the playlist, and if you have a sushi bar, make it interactive between chefs and patrons. That’s the point after all.

It is in the Chateau Laurier, so the experience has its price, but the execution is first rate. It makes Akira Back a special date night spot or a destination for a pre-show dinner at the NAC.

The food is very good with service to match. I need to make special mention of server Tristan, who was clearly observant from a distance because he seemed to anticipate needs at our table. 

I’d like to thank Manager Candace Battig and Chef de Cuisine Andrew Ham for a lovely evening that provided memorable moments. Well done.

SPONSORED BY RESTAURANTS CANADA

It’s not the menu. It’s the people

Across Canada, restaurants are struggling to find enough staff.  

Not because they aren’t hiring, but because there are not enough people to fill the roles. You see it in shorter hours, added strain on staff, longer waits and tough decisions about staying open. 

Behind every great meal are many hands. And when some of those hands are missing, everyone feels it. 

Take a minute to watch and see the many hands that keep the restaurant industry moving. 

DRINK REVIEW

Affordable and above-average

Sho Chiku Bai Jyosen Sake

Sho Chiku Bai Jyosen sake

Sho Chiku Bai Jyosen Sake comes to us from Kyoto, the capital of Japan’s largest island: Honshu.

The Sho Chiku Bai that was most widely available in Canada has been discontinued as it was being made in California. Lucky for us, these new products are now available and they are just that much nicer.

This Jyosen sake remains in the dry spectrum with an acidity classified as medium. It’s precisely this balance that makes it a versatile choice for a variety of dishes. It also gives you a hint of Asian pear on the nose.

It’s not a “Junmai” sake. This means it’s had a neutral rice spirit added to it giving it a little leaner texture and a lift in the yeast and rice profile. 

For those who like their sake warm (45 C), this is the choice for you when enjoying a more robust fish like grilled mackerel. It also worked well with salad in a miso dressing.

Sho Chiku Bai Kyoto Junmai

Sho Chiku Bai Kyoto Junmai. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Sho Chiku Bai Kyoto Junmai, as the name tells us, is a Junmai and is therefore 100% rice with no addition of spirits.

It has a softer, rounder mouthfeel than the previous sake. It’s almost creamy with hints of honeydew melon and suggestions of vanilla ice cream. 

Not overly complex, it does however, put you more into a contemplative state of mind as you’ll want to sip this one. 

Match its texture with sushi such as hotate (scallops) or ika (squid/cuttlefish). This sake can be served warm but is best slightly cool or at room temperature. Also a good choice for mushroom risotto. 

LATEST STORIES

Good morning,

New restaurant season seems to be upon us and we have a first word on the newest restaurant by one of Ottawa’s finest chefs: Teegavarapu Sarath Mohan.

Sarath recently left EK Bar and will soon be launching, what appears to be, a new concept and you can read more under Quick Bites below.

Let’s dive in.

Ralf Joneikies, food and drink editor. ralf.joneikies@ottawalookout.com

BEST OF

Where our Capital Eats food editor often eats

At the last Capital Eats dinner, guests asked me for tips on restaurants in Ottawa. It gave me the idea to share with you the places I frequent when I’m not on the job.

These are the places that have dishes I crave and that represent real value for money when you’re on a budget. Writers certainly fall into this category.

So let’s whet our appetites with some delicious dishes around town and subscribers needn’t worry, there will be a second edition of favourites coming. 

Yang Sheng

Yang Sheng black pepper beef. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Yang Sheng at 662 Somerset St. W. is rightly famous for quality and generous dim sum. I always indulge but it really is their sizzling black pepper beef that I crave. It’s unbelievably tender and you’ll find yourself eating that sauce with a spoon.

At the moment it’s my favourite beef dish in Ottawa.

Read more

Metropolitain Brasserie

Metropolitain Lyonnaise salad. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Metropolitain Brasserie at 700 Sussex Dr. needs no introduction but perhaps some readers have not yet been.

They do a bang up job with French classics such as the Lyonnaise salad. A snappy dressing that marries so well with the bitterness of the frisée and the saltiness of the rendered lardon, keeps you savouring every bite.

The kitchen is expert but don’t forget that they have one of the best deals in Ottawa when on Thursdays they offer buck-a-shuck oysters.

Read more

Thali

Thali shrimp thali. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Readers will know Thali at 136 O’Connor St. as another no-brainer destination. Joe Thottungal’s talented kitchen faithfully puts out quality dishes and the daily crowds attest to the fact.

A thali platter is a lovely way to eat affordably. The small dishes served with perfectly cooked basmati rice and piping hot roti, are varied, providing for exciting new directions with every bite.

Best yet, these thalis can be customized to accommodate vegans, vegetarians, pescatarians and meat eaters.

Read more

Saigon Boy

Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Saigon Boy at 648 Somerset St. W. stands out for one of the nicest bowls of Pho you’ll find in Ottawa. I typically order Pho Tai Bo Vien (rare beef and meatballs) and that broth is a fragrant ambrosia for a bruised soul. 

It’s long been a favourite and yet I’ve never done a full review and that may very well have a selfish reason. That aside, the place is not hurting for lack of customers as locals know it very well. 

It appears they’ve recently updated the interior and that’s a good thing as during winter months, dining in could be a frosty affair. 

When you go, don’t forget to also order their excellent pork spring rolls. They’re amongst the best in Ottawa.

Nagi Sushi

Nagi sashimi. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Nagi at 2208 St. Joseph Blvd. opened its doors in the winter of 2024. Chef/owner Moriyuki Hiroha (aka Shu) slung his blade for 30 years at the legendary Suisha Gardens, later renamed C’est Japon a Suisha on Slater. 

Fans of his food soon flooded Nagi and I recommend reservations for both lunch and dinner. It’s a space that seats about 22 and you don’t want to be disappointed.

There is an increasing number of expensive Japanese restaurants in Ottawa and while quality fish is never cheap, Nagi offers a true value for money proposition in the new landscape.

As a master, Shu can’t help but select the finest fish and Nagi is a frequent go-to for a fine dine-in Japanese meal.

Read more

Orchird Sushi

Orchid Sushi takeaway selection. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

If you, like me, have regular sushi cravings, Orchid Sushi at 445 Laurier Ave. W. may just become your favourite takeaway. It’s certainly my go-to.

It’s reasonably priced and the freshness is always paramount with both cooked and raw dishes prepared by experienced and qualified cooks.

I always enjoy the shrimp salad roll (top left) which involves enoki mushrooms, cooked shrimp, pickled radish, cucumber and surimi. It’s a delicious combination and a regular item for me. The sauce of Japanese mayonnaise, soy sauce, mirin and sesame is an imaginative and ideal match for this roll.

Read more

Chez Lionel

Chez Lionel seafood risotto. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Chez Lionel at 101 Kanata Ave (Inside the Holiday Inn) has established itself as one of the finer destinations for traditional bistro dining. The prices are also more than fair.

A three-course weekday lunch will set you back $42 and be warned, you may not be able to finish it all. The portions are generous and the cooking is at a much higher level than you typically see in many hotel restaurants. Of course you can always opt for the á la carte menu.

The menu changes several times a year but if you get there soon you can enjoy the seafood risotto before it’s replaced. The rice was perfect and moist with a deeply pleasurable stock made with crustacean shells and white wine. The amount of bay scallops used was appreciated and I began laughing when there didn’t seem to be an end to them.

Read more

Kuma Takumi

Kuma Takumi Takoyaki. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Kuma Takumi (484 Hazeldean Rd.) straight out of the gate proved their credentials. Of course I was so impressed by that first bowl of ramen that I went back often to go through the menu. 

Eventually I got around to the Hellfire Ramen and in one newsletter wrote that this was the best spicy ramen I’ve had. Yes, better than anything in all my years in Toronto or Vancouver. 

While all their ramen makes my list in the top 4 of ramen shops in Ottawa, you cannot forego their takoyaki. These savoury dough balls stuffed with tender octopus and topped with katsuoboshi (bonito flakes), are, strange as it sounds, almost sensual in texture. 

Read more

Del Piacere

Caprese Salad. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Del Piacere at 416 Preston is easily one of the best, underrated Italian eateries in Ottawa. I’m sure however that regulars are not happy with me saying this.

Everything is on point and their 15” Neapolitan pizzas are so good they may very well represent the best value pies in Ottawa. 

As prices rise everywhere, Del Piacere holds the line and continues to be a welcoming space for serious foodies who want great food on a budget. 

The gnocchi in four cheese sauce is a dream but if you’re here for pizza, have your mind blown by the prosciutto e funghi. So very good. It’s also under $20.

Read more

Caravela

Caravela chicken. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Caravela (3172 Innes Rd.) in Orléans is one of two Portuguese restaurants in Ottawa and based on my experiences, it’s the one you should consider. 

Time and again the execution of seafood dishes is on point: never dry, overcooked or substandard in freshness. 

For Ottawa, they do a good Piri Piri chicken but it’s with seafood that they shine. Prices have gone up since COVID but owner Fernando Diniz holds the line on excessive pricing and his dishes still represent some of the best seafood value in Ottawa. 

For example the seafood fettuccine is enough for two to share. Have that with an appetizer of sweet and tender grilled calamari and a salad and all is right with the world.

If you go at lunch, have the pork and clams Alentejana for a true taste of Portugal. You’ll thank me. Also make a reservation ALWAYS for either lunch or dinner. 

Read more

50 Two Sandwiches

50 Two Sandwiches. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Ottawa has no shortage of good sandwich places but the one that occupies my imagination frequently is 50 Two Sandwiches at 52 Antares Dr.

Sure their signature candied bacon club is imitated but it’s the quality, taste and freshness of their daily baked breads that causes people to stand in long lines each and every day.

Everything, from roast chicken to soups to their excellent chocolate chip cookies is made in-house. 

Have this food once and you’ll understand the fans.

Read more

Kitchen Maroo

Kitchen Maroo (281 Kent St.) is a go-to Korean restaurant with a world-travelled, experienced chef at the helm.

The food is always fresh, sometimes fusion and well presented at reasonable prices. Try one of Yuchang’s Korean “schnitzels” with demi-glace and fail to be impressed by this Euro-Korean fusion. 

Of course being a fan of Korean BBQ I go for the galbi shortribs and his shrimp spring rolls are the most memorable in Ottawa.

Read more

QUICK BITES

• Chef Teegavarapu Sarath Mohan has left EK Bar and will be opening his new restaurant Coq Kodi (820 Somerset St. W) mid-May. He told me that it will be a “Chicken Supper Club” restaurant that will feature dishes paired with Champagne and cocktails. I’m in.

• Savvy Co. will be hosting two Pink Sip and Buy Rosé events in the upcoming weeks. They’ll also have a new wine and cheese pairing seminar and a special for Mother’s Day. All information at the link.

• Chef Joe Thottungal, in commemoration of Ottawa’s 200th birthday, will be launching a Literary Feast on May 6th at the Horticulture Building Lansdowne Park. Meet your favourite Canadian cookbook authors and drink and eat to your heart's content. Tickets available here.

• Eataria Unlimited, a Carleton Place restaurant, has been shut down by the health unit after diners fall ill. [CTV]

LATEST STORIES

Sponsored by

Good morning,

I begin with a small correction. In last week’s edition of Lookout Wine, I had the incorrect spelling for the Pearl Morissette winery. The error has been corrected for the website.

I would be doing a disservice to Ottawa’s foodie community if I didn’t mention the upcoming Literary Feast taking place at the Horticulture Building on May 6. Joe Thottungal of Thali and Coconut Lagoon has organized a celebration of food, drink and Canadian cookbook authors. Tickets available at the link.

Today we take a look at one of Ottawa’s legacy Thai restaurants and ask the question: after so many decades, is it still relevant?

The LCBO has also early-released a series of summertime drinks and we begin our taste journey.

Let’s get started.

Ralf Joneikies, food and drink editor. ralf.joneikies@ottawalookout.com

THAI

Sweet Basil rewards

Sweet Basil. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Last year, a lifelong friend asked if I had been to Sweet Basil lately. I admitted I hadn’t as my last visit had been underwhelming.

She encouraged me to give it a try as she felt that their kitchen was putting out some of Ottawa’s best Thai. I took her advice, and off I went.

I arrived to a quiet room with just a few other tables occupied. It was a pleasant space designed to transport you to warmer climates.

Sweet Basil Tom Yum soup. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

The Tom Yum soup I'd ordered came out piping hot. It was a clear broth and as a lunch time version came with fresh slices of chicken breast. Other proteins are available at dinner.

It was curiously clear without the orange aspect you expect. Tom Yum is traditionally cooked using roasted shrimp shells for flavour and colour. I was told, “we use only chicken stock”, so that explained it.

The menu indicated that it was seasoned with the traditional lemongrass and galangal but I couldn’t find those flavours in the broth. Rather than lime, I detected lemon juice, but the mushrooms were perfectly fresh and that was a rare moment. Too often old, funky mushrooms are used.

It was a nicely made soup, just not a traditional interpretation of a Thai classic. That was out of step with how good everything that followed would be.

Sweet Basil chicken spring rolls.

The minced chicken spring rolls were fine and came with a house-made sweet chili that elevated the experience. I was served a side of Thai chopped chili sauce that I would pour over my Pad Thai. 

This sauce is called Prik Nam Pla and consists of fish sauce, lime juice, shallots, garlic, red and green bird chili and a tiny amount of sugar. No other Thai restaurant in Ottawa comes close to making this sauce so well. If you enjoy spice, you can buy bottles of this from Sweet Basil for home use. It goes well with everything, including breakfast eggs.

Sweet Basil Pad Thai. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

As mentioned, I do enjoy a little heat on my Pad Thai, but the version in front of me was so flavourful, that it didn’t need a boost.

They used a narrower, box-shaped noodle of superior quality that retained its toothsome resistance. When asked, they did admit that they use “small amounts of ketchup” in the sauce but I asked for it to be made without it. 

They were very accommodating and having been traditionally made, it turned out to be one of the better interpretations I’ve had in Ottawa. I strongly recommend you order yours this way as well. Get yours with prawns and be glad with how fresh, sweet and large they are.

Sweet Basil spicy lamb. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

I’m not accustomed to seeing lamb on a Thai menu, so I dove in with the spicy lamb sauteed with vegetables. 

The lamb was tender and robustly flavoured but I had the sense that some vegetables, notably the eggplant, had spent time in a pre-cut state, and had taken on a fridge taste.

Generally it was a good-tasting dish, but that off-taste was distracting. All that’s needed is greater care in prep work.

Sweet Basil Pad Woon Sen. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Next up was my favourite of all Thai noodle dishes: Pad Woon Sen. This is a noodle dish made with mung bean noodles, sometimes referred to as “glass noodles”. 

Strangely, it’s difficult to find Pad Woon Sen in many Thai eateries so when I see it, I need to give it a try.

I ordered mine with beef and while the flavour was nice, it was a little too firm.

The reason that I typically order such dishes with prawns is that it’s not common in Thai cuisine to velvetize proteins such as beef, chicken or pork. As a result, the meats tend to be tougher than I like. 

The rest of the dish was completely on point. The noodles had taken on the seasoning of the wok, giving them a smoky element and the vegetables were colourful and crisp.

Not long ago I had these same noodles at one of my favourite Thai places in Burnaby, B.C. – Chad Thai. The version served to me at Sweet Basil was just that much better. 

After 40 years Sweet Basil continues to impress with well-executed, bold and flavourful Thai food that doesn’t take a backseat to any restaurant in the category.

Their menu is diverse and adventurous enough to warrant repeat visits and if you’re going for that famous national dish, remember to request “No ketchup”.

SPONSORED BY BLACK TARTAN KITCHEN

Small-town, big-heart hospitality: The black tartan experience

At black tartan, we believe our small town hospitality can make anyone feel at home. Our menus are designed to take your taste buds through an incredible journey with the best seasonal flavours of Lanark County and the Ottawa Valley. The entire meal is designed to be more than just food to fill your gut; it's an experience where we focus on A LOT of details. Some details that may even go unnoticed, but still, details that you will most certainly experience. Yet nothing about the meal is pretentious. You won't be uncomfortable choosing which fork to use, lectured on how to eat a certain dish or scolded for licking the plate (bonus points for actually licking the plate).

Whether you are enjoying one of our curated tasting menus, or staying the night in our two bedroom, private apartment, our small town hospitality is sure to make you feel at home.

DRIVE REVIEW

Summer comes early with

RTD collection 2026

Some time back (more than 20 years ago), an LCBO manager and friend, told me that the board would be putting more effort into promoting ready-to-drink (RTD) options. There was just that much more margin per unit. 

So despite their concurrent campaign to discourage booze from getting into the hands of youth, they began heavily encouraging RTD sales.

I recently spoke with a number of LCBO employees and all expressed that they “weren’t surprised” that in 2026, their employer had started promoting RTDs, earlier than ever. 

When I returned to Ottawa, I learned that there were producers in Quebec who were leading the way in this category. Not only was the packaging nicer, they also had better ingredients, less sugar and were more enjoyable. 

With a clear trend towards less sugar in these drinks, Ontario has caught up in the last few years. It’s now more rare that I come across a recipe that just doesn’t work. 

With that out of the way, I’m always more interested in recipes that stand out for a more naturally derived profile. These products will ideally also be drinks that I might not necessarily make at home, for a variety of reasons.

With that (from L to R) we launch into the first RTD grouping of 2026.

Rumbler’s Cola is their take on a Cuba Libre. It is less sweet than you might expect with a mouth-watering lime acidity at the back end. The cola flavour is modest but in balance with the rum. It’s a decent product but with just rum, cola and lime, it’s easy enough to experiment with proportions to make your own at home.

Sapporo Vodka Lemon Sour stands out. I first had it weeks ago in Vancouver and I immediately wondered if I’d be able to find it back in Ontario. Lucky me. 

To date this ranks as the best tasting lemon RTD on the market. There is something almost magical about the flavour profile. It has sufficient lemon in terms of flavour and acidity, but also a background foundation of lemon oil. It’s a delicate mix and it’s this that makes it such a precise and low-sugar refresher. Worth buying.

Reid’s Cucumber Rose Collins, in terms of name and package, is very promising. A gin-based beverage with cucumber and rose? Yes please. 

Well the cucumber is very present, but perhaps the rose is a reference to the pale pink because the flavour of rose is entirely absent. Now maybe it’s there somewhere but you can’t tell for all the bitter quinine.

Nowhere does the label indicate that this is a tonic-based drink and the word “Collins” means a gin and lemon-based beverage. Not a tonic.

As a drink it’s fine, but correct the label or fix the recipe. 

Twelve Apostles Singapore Sling is a welcome addition to the field of canned cocktails, if for no other reason than that the required boozy ingredients are difficult to find. 

Key ingredients include Cherry Heering, a Danish liqueur that the LCBO stocked at every store for decades. Now I can’t recall when I last saw it. 

Another is DOM Benedictine, and at the moment, only two stores in Ottawa have it in stock. 

The Twelve Apostles version is an offshoot of Cowbell Brewing and it’s fruity, sweet and fun to drink. It has an aromatic tropical appeal and does make you think of warmer climes. 

My feeling is that it could use a little more acidity, courtesy of lime and a little less sugar. As a writer, I’m also curious to know what they could be using in place of Benedictine and Cherry Heering. Stay tuned for the answer. 

Iceberg Blueberry Lemon is the venerable Canadian Vodka’s first foray into the RTD space. It has less sugar than many such drinks and does have hints of blueberry and lemon. 

It’s smooth and when well chilled, very easy to drink. The blueberry comes through and while it will be a popular summertime sipper, in a field of incre

QUICK BITES

• The federal government announced it will allow rural employers to have a greater proportion of low-wage temporary foreign workers on their payroll on a time-limited basis. [CBC]

• The newest location of Crab Boil, a growing Toronto seafood chain, has just opened in Kanata.

• The new AC Hotel by Marriott is scheduled to open on Apr. 24th on Rideau St. [CTV]

LATEST STORIES

Good morning,

It’s been a great start to 2026. 

We’ve launched the newly redesigned Capital Eats site, our first Capital Eats Supper Club of the year was a massive success and today we’re recapping the best of the winter. That was fast.

You’ll find a few pubs on today’s list as well as a Gatineau bistro and, remarkably, I had some truly well prepared dishes at a local brunch buffet. As always, it’s good to revisit the positive.

I also want to share some news imparted to me by Chef René Rodriguez. At lunch he shared that he was leaving La Bottega to start a contract with the Tavern group of restaurants. Folks in the know, understand that these venues are prized for their locations. I expect that with Rodriguez at the helm, customers will now also go for the food.

Grab your beverage of choice and let’s take a look back.

Ralf Joneikies, food and drink editor. ralf.joneikies@ottawalookout.com

BEST OF

The best bites of winter 2026

Mousse Buvette dining room. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Read the story online here.

If there’s one thing I hear frequently from readers, it’s how many of you did not know that certain businesses exist. Not just restaurants but international food stores as well. 

It’s always a pleasure for me to discover something new and then to share the good news. Such as the little shop that is both a takeaway and has fab pre-made dishes, for vegetarians and omnivores alike, to be cooked at home. Or the terrific little bistro in Old Hull that offers both creative and healthy meals. 

As a matter of fact, let’s begin there…

Mousse Buvette

Mousse Buvette winter salad. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

It was chef Yannick LaSalle that first suggested I visit Mousse Buvette (39A Rue Laval, Old Hull). He hadn’t yet eaten there, but a friend of his was involved. Then I learned that it was on one of my favourite dining streets in the region. I immediately headed over in anticipation of a better-than-average experience.

I wouldn’t be wrong because the chef at the helm was the talented Stephanie Saumur, who had previously worked at Sans Façons.

They have a playful menu with flavours both classic bistro and Asian-inspired. You certainly won’t go wrong with either the duck carpaccio or the devilled eggs to start. 

If you’re looking to do something special for both your taste buds and your gut, dig into the chef's vibrant winter salad. It’s a marvel of contrasts in both textures and flavours, and the whipped goat cheese with dates was an inspired way to add protein to the dish.

Get this salad while you still can although I hope it stays on the menu.

Read the review

Bamm’s Snack Shack

Bamm’s Bowie burger. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Bamm’s Snack Shack (74 Cobourg St.) will be closing at the end of April. Those of you that know it, are saddened by the fact, but happy for the owners Ashley and Matt. Their goal is to spend more time with their children. 

In the meantime you’ll still have a chance to sample some of the best comfort food Ottawa has to offer. Grab their burger and fries and be wowed. Both the brisket for the burger and the potatoes are first brined before cooking. That’s a flavour-packed step you won’t find in too many other restaurants. Then wash it all down with their fantastic house-made smoked lemonade.

For some regulars, the prize is their ridiculously outsized donuts. I can safely say that their apple fritters, popcorn donuts and cinnamon rolls are first rate. I do however think that the French cruller is likely the finest I’ve ever had.

Read the review

Naru

Naru pork bulgogi and sprouts

Naru at 1896 Prince of Wales Dr. is a find for lovers of Korean cuisine.

You can get delicious and hot take-away or you can browse their many fridges for items to cook at home. 

The selection of small side dishes (banchan) is plentiful. You can get a variety of dinner options that will take just minutes in a hot pan.

I picked up the items pictured. For under $20 it was substantial enough to feed two. It was also beautifully seasoned and supremely fresh.

Read the review

Deacon Brodie’s

Deacon Brodie’s bangers and mash. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Deacon Brodies at 247 Elgin St. is known for Ottawa’s largest collection of Scotch (400+ bottles).

Its menu consists of pre-made restaurant service delivery and freshly made items such as burgers. 

They also do traditional British bangers and mash that is not so traditional. In fact the “banger” they use is a housemade sausage that is very clearly an Italian sausage with a little heat. It’s also one of the best sausages I’ve had since returning to Ottawa. I was not expecting that from a Scottish pub, and it’s the taste that stood out for me.

It’s a warm and comfortable pub that provides value for money and offers daily drink or food specials.

Read the review

The Manx

Manx Furlonger Club sandwich. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

The Manx at 370 Elgin St., it’s fair to say, is a legend on Ottawa’s pub landscape. The food certainly contributes to its reputation. What makes it unique is that it’s free of music and TV screens. Here you engage in the long-lost art of conversation, often with complete strangers who, in some cases, become friends.

They have a decent selection of craft libations, and if you’re hungry, there are well-made dishes from a modest menu. 

On one visit, I enjoyed the Furlonger Club sandwich that had freshly grilled chicken breast on house-baked sourdough. With the first bite, you could tell that this was a different and completely natural experience.

You may also want to consult the board for daily specials. If you’re lucky they’ll be offering one of their excellent burgers. 

Read the review

St. Brigids Well Pub

Brigid’s Well lamb stew. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

St. Brigid’s Well pub at 310 St. Patrick St. is another one of the most unique pubs in Ottawa. It also has the smallest pub food menu in the city, produced by an on-site business called Pine Marten.

It’s all very old-world where you order your food and drink at the bar. You wait for your drink at the bar and are given a table marker to identify you for your food order.

You’ll find traditional Irish brews on tap, including the hard-to-find Murphy’s Stout which happens to be a favourite. It was a perfect pour for the lamb stew I’d ordered.

You go for the feeling of tradition and authenticity but it was the lamb stew that convinced me that this place was the real deal in every way.

Read the review

Pelican Seafood

Pelican Blacks Harbour salmon. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

For more than three decades, Pelican at 1500 Bank St. has been putting out fresh and well-loved seafood dishes. The endlessly packed room is a testament to the quality.

You will get perfectly prepared favourites such as fish and chips, shrimp cocktails and seafood towers but they are no slouch in providing creatively turned out mains.

This salmon was completely on point with combinations that came together in harmony for a beautiful, brightly coloured meal.

The food is consistently fine. But it’s the service that completes the experience. I ordered a cocktail unfamiliar to them, and they managed a very credible version, and it was delicious. This is clearly the kind of restaurant that always goes that one extra step to give value to its customers.

Read the review

Ay Wey Mexican

Ay Wey Tlayudas. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Ay Wey at 295 McArthur Ave. is a Mexican food destination that goes to some lengths to give you a more traditional experience of Mexican flavours. Nothing leaves this kitchen that hasn’t been made from scratch.

The tacos are excellent and the Tlayudas (aka Mexican pizza) is a robust and intensely flavoured combination of housemade sausage, vegetables, seasoned beef strips, cheese and bean paste.

It’s all very heady stuff, best washed down with a Michelada, a savoury cocktail of beer and energetically seasoned clamato.

This is easily amongst the best Mexican food in Ottawa.

Read the review

Council Oak Brunch

Council Oak brunch buffet. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

A few weeks ago, the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino at 4837 Albion Rd. put together a media junket to showcase their Sunday Brunch Buffet at their Council Oak restaurant. This was putting a direct two-word challenge to any serious food writer: brunch and buffet. The gauntlet had been thrown down.

It promised all you could eat seafood, a carving station with superb roast beef and dozens of vegetables, baked goods and dessert items. It was so good that I could not leave it off my best of the quarter list.

With endless snow crab, jumbo prawns cocktail, New Brunswick oysters, and a selection of house-cured and smoked salmon, it was difficult not to be impressed by the quality. 

For $65 per person, you’re treated to a bit of luxury in a comfortable and calming environment with excellent and attentive service.

Read the review

FROM THE ARCHIVE

The best food and drinks of summer 2025

Milky Way selection. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Read the story

Did you know the Lookout relies on readers like you to help locals discover our journalism? If you have a moment, please consider sharing this story: Facebook | Twitter | Linkedin | Bluesky | Email | Copy this url

LATEST STORIES

Good morning,

Last Friday’s Capital Eats dinner at Sona The Indian Kitchen was a resounding success. The sold-out dinner featured the wines of Niagara’s Cave Spring and co-owner Thomas Pennachetti was on hand to describe the wines.

We’d like to thank those readers who attended, Thomas of Cave Spring for his engagement and Sona’s Singh-Negi family for delivering such memorable dishes and first rate service.

For today’s edition we pop into a very popular spot in a Merivale strip mall and embark on another exploration of Canadian whiskey.

Let’s begin.

Ralf Joneikies, food and drink editor. ralf.joneikies@ottawalookout.com

REVIEW

At Tokyo Crispy, deep fried food has never tasted so good

Tokyo Crispy. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

My first attempt at dining here failed. I went just after they opened for lunch service and already there was a line out the door.

In fairness it is a small room with a capacity for approximately 20 guests and back then it appeared they had even fewer seats.

Tokyo Crispy chicken gyoza. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Gyoza dumpling options are offered as both deep-fried and pan-fried and I chose the latter. They were nice enough, although I would have wished for a little more crisping on the fried side. 

The minced chicken was light and almost fluffy, but I could have used more seasoning such as ginger, garlic and/or scallions. At $9 for five, it was a little punchy.

Tokyo Crispy Miso Kara Katsu. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Tokyo Crispy is a restaurant that specializes in katsu, which you might think of as schnitzel. Like schnitzel, pork and chicken are most commonly used.

In North America, too many restaurants feel the need to offer a wide range of cuisines on a single menu. Jack of all trades and master of none.

Tokyo Crispy also fits into a tradition of Japanese restaurants that have narrow specialties. Ramen shops offer ramen, yakitori restaurants make char-grilled skewered meats, and soba shops specialize in dishes using only soba noodles.

So I was in no way surprised that the katsu here was this good. 

The dish was served with miso soup, a side of sweet pickled daikon radish, and plain rice. The soup was rather simple with just green onion but it tasted as if there was the addition of sake. It wasn’t alcoholic at all but there was something mildly fruity and it was quite pleasant. 

The chicken cutlet had been hammered thin, expertly battered and finished in panko. The meat was melt-in-your-mouth tender and the crust seasoned just enough. The large cutlet had been done in a savoury sauce of aged red miso making this dish a winner. 

Tokyo Crispy fish cake udon. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

As a seasonal specialty, they’ve put a fish cake udon soup on the menu topped with katsuoboshi (bonito flakes).

Udon broth is made using bonito flakes, kombu (seaweed), soy sauce and mirin (sweet rice wine). It was a warming dish, the plain noodles slowly absorbing the tasty broth.

The fish cakes were better than average, meaning that they didn’t taste fishy. I realize it’s oxymoronic to suggest this, but too many of these commercially made fish cakes taste as if they’re at the wrong end of the life cycle. 

Given the simplicity of the broth and the execution required for this soup, $19 was, again, a little pricey.

Tokyo Crispy Seoul menchi katsu. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

If the chicken katsu reminded me of schnitzel, the Seoul menchi katsu tasted close to another great German treat: frikadelle. 

A frikadelle is a domed patty, halfway between a burger and meatball, made of mixed ground beef and pork, onions, raw egg and bread crumbs.

Here, the ground pork patty was panko-crusted and covered in a very good house-made Korean brown sauce. Putting aside the effect of reading the words “brown sauce ”on a menu, the recipe was even more memorable than the chicken katsu. 

It was in fact one of the best-tasting dishes I’ve had this winter. The bed of onions on which it rested were sumptuously softened and glazed in a sweet soy. A very nice experience when combined with a scoop of the perfectly steamed rice.

Based on my previous experience, I was afraid that arriving at 12:15 (they open at 11:30) I would be too late for a seat. I had success, but half an hour later, the small waiting area was full. 

There are enough eateries that attempt katsu, and I’ve largely found the experience to be disappointing. An exception is Kitchen Maroo and if you like this cuisine, indulge in a comparison tasting. 

When at Tokyo Crispy, and I can’t believe I’m saying this, but stick with the fried foods. They also have panko shrimp and takoyaki (octopus) as appetizers but those will be for another day.

I’m glad they focus on such a tight menu because what they do – they do exceptionally well.

Did you know the Lookout relies on readers like you to help locals discover our journalism? If you have a moment, please consider sharing this story: Facebook | Twitter | Linkedin | Bluesky | Email | Copy this url

DRINK

Calling all whiskey lovers

Collingwood Double Barreled. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

Note: As of this writing the LCBO website is down so I cannot link to it. The price is $39.95 for a 750 ml bottle. 45% alc.

If you look at the back label of this whiskey, you'll see that the website is given as www.sazerac.com. Sazerac is an iconic American brand owned by the Brown-Forman company, makers of some of the most important American spirits in history.

It is still very much Canadian and made in the village of Collingwood, Ontario. While its main market is the U.S., it has a wide distribution across Canada. 

I’ve always enjoyed the original Collingwood whiskey with its more straight-ahead maple character that came from actual maple wood exposure rather than flavouring. It’s a very good start for those exploring Canadian whiskey for the first time.

This double-barreled bottling amps up the rye in the mash bill, giving it greater peppery notes. It twice rests in white oak barrels, the second time in a more heavily charred version and for approximately three years.

With this barrel treatment and if the mash bill contained at least 51% corn, you would be more comfortably heading into bourbon territory.

It is then further finished in stainless steel tanks with maple staves giving it a bit of a sweeter and more perfumed character on the finish.

As you’d expect, this dram has some nutty and dried fruit character on a long caramel, cinnamon and coffee finish. 

It’s a serious enough whiskey to enjoy neat or with a few drops of good water but it also makes for a mature tasting Manhattan

FROM THE ARCHIVE

Brigid’s Well is the definition of a neighbourhood pub

St. Brigid’s Well. Ralf Joneikies/Ottawa Lookout

While St. Brigid’s Well has been an established Ottawa haunt for all things Irish, they only really started gaining notoriety in late 2023 according to staff. Understandable that the garrulous Gaelic forces needed an outlet after years of our collective exile. We all did.

Arrive at this church and there’s no sign to guide you, just the numbers of people holding open a great wooden door into which stream large numbers as soon as they open at 4 pm.

Read the review

QUICK BITES

• Savvy Co. will be holding two Drink Pink Rosé pop up tastings, one in East Ottawa  April 20 and the other in West Ottawa - April 21. Get your tickets at the links

• Another restaurant closure. Sadly, less than a year after opening VIP Seafood Restaurant on Rideau has had its doors closed by the landlord. [CTV]

• With the madness of tariffs, U.S. restaurants are having to shift their wine priorities. [Bloomberg]

LATEST STORIES